UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good direct line up the walls, overhang and cracks parallel to Climbers' Club Direct. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully. Head directly up the wall (just left of Climbers' Club Ordinary) and cross its traverse to gain a position under the right side of an overhang. Pass the overhang via some steep leftward pulls and then head up round cracks and grooves to eventually meet and finish up Route B. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch is another, worthwhile, variation start to Climbers’ Club, if the others
have been done. The second pitch isn’t quite as good, and could use more traffic.
1) 5a. Start just left of the gully. Climb the wall to join the traverse of Climbers’ Club, until the flake. Go right, around the side of the overhang, until it is possible to step onto it (or take it direct, harder). Climb up, and left, to belay beneath the Climbers’ Club chimney.
2) 5a. Move out right, and climb a hard groove/crack to the last pitch of Route B.
3) .Finish up Route B (Pg 16), or escape right.

1959.

Ticklists

Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jcstewart 2 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A great forgotten classic route. Middle section where the crux is can be slightly tricky due to being dirty. All the holds are there though. protection is bomber just trust your feet.
Show beta
βeta: A great forgotten classic route. Middle section where the crux is can be slightly tricky due to being dirty. All the holds are there though. protection is bomber just trust your feet.
SteveHastings 29 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: PItch 2 cleaned April 2021. A great couple of pitches worth at least a star I think. Please have a go and enjoy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: PItch 2 cleaned April 2021. A great couple of pitches worth at least a star I think. Please have a go and enjoy.

Logged Ascents

46 users have logged this

Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 10 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last Exit to Torquay

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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