UKC

52m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The easiest way up the Dewerstone's most impressive wall is a fine series of pitches. The first pitch is serious and requires care. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully.
1) 4b, 24m. Climb up and traverse left to some dubious flakes. Head left, using them with great care, then climb up left to an overhanging corner. Move up this for 2m and then make a blind step rightwards, around a rib, into a parallel corner. Move up to a good stance on the left at a bollard.
2) 4b, 20m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right. Move up to a widening, then traverse leftwards using a thin black crack to a good ledge belay beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 8m. Climb the magnificently positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, varied, climbing and exposure combine to produce a Classic Rock
climb. Poor protection makes this a serious pitch for both leader and second.
1) 4b. Bold. Start at the earthy corner on the right. Climb this corner, and cracks in the wall, to a small niche, and pick up the likely traverse line. Move delicately across,
and up this, to a large flake. Continue into the niche.
2) 4a. Move right, and make a blind move to gain a groove. Climb this groove to belay on a ledge beneath a chimney.
3) 4a. Climb the chimney (Peg). Move up, and out, of the chimney and into a wide crack. Climb this crack, until an airy leftwards traverse leads to a belay, beneath a hanging corner. (As for Central Groove (Pg 13).)
4) 4b. Climb the corner to the top. Or, try the finish to CC Direct

D.Cox, R. Bere 02/Sep/1935.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , South West Classic VS's , 2020 Vision , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , 32 By 32

Feedback

User Date Notes
Phil Lyon 21 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Approach instructions should just say, \"cross bridge, turn right and follow paths at or near river level\". This will take you to the crag. Map in car park combined with rockfax wording is actually a bit confusing and contradictory.
βeta?
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βeta: Approach instructions should just say, "cross bridge, turn right and follow paths at or near river level". This will take you to the crag. Map in car park combined with rockfax wording is actually a bit confusing and contradictory.
Whits 13 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Be vigilant of loose blocks on p1
βeta?
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βeta: Be vigilant of loose blocks on p1
Paul Sagar 29 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Serious route you should only climb with a couple of grades in hand. Not to be underestimated.
βeta?
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βeta: Serious route you should only climb with a couple of grades in hand. Not to be underestimated.
Iain Weymouth 29 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Super route which follows an improbable line for its grade
βeta?
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βeta: Super route which follows an improbable line for its grade
phil456 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The wide grove that leads off from the p1 belay has no gear unless you have large cams, my blue dragon No 5, did not inspire any confidence.
Show beta
βeta: The wide grove that leads off from the p1 belay has no gear unless you have large cams, my blue dragon No 5, did not inspire any confidence.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Followed
Soloed
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Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
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Redpoint
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Route of Interest
Gates of Eden

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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