The easiest way up the Dewerstone's most impressive wall is a fine series of pitches. The first pitch is serious and requires care. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully.1) 4b, 24m. Climb up and traverse left to some dubious flakes. Move left, using them with great care, then climb up left to an overhanging corner. Move up this for 2m and then make a blind move rightwards, around a rib, into a parallel corner. Move up to a good stance.2) 4b, 20m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right. Move up to a widening and traverse leftwards using a thin black crack to a good ledge-belay beneath a clean-cut corner.3) 4b, 8m. Climb the magnificently-positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, varied, climbing and exposure combine to produce a Classic Rock
climb. Poor protection makes this a serious pitch for both leader and second.
1) 4b. Bold. Start at the earthy corner on the right. Climb this corner, and cracks in the wall, to a small niche, and pick up the likely traverse line. Move delicately across,
and up this, to a large flake. Continue into the niche.
2) 4a. Move right, and make a blind move to gain a groove. Climb this groove to belay on a ledge beneath a chimney.
3) 4a. Climb the chimney (Peg). Move up, and out, of the chimney and into a wide crack. Climb this crack, until an airy leftwards traverse leads to a belay, beneath a hanging corner. (As for Central Groove (Pg 13).)
4) 4b. Climb the corner to the top. Or, try the finish to CC Direct
D.Cox, R. Bere 02/Sep/1935.
Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, South West Classic VS's, 2020 Vision, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial, 30 By 30
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents