Rockfax Description
A formidable extended boulder problem that takes on the blank looking wall below the Climbers' Club Ordinary traverse. Begin just left of the shallow cave. Move up the wall and gain a good edge out right. Continue direct via equally difficult layaways to gain easier ground on the Climbers' Club Ordinary traverse. Either reverse the Climbers' Club Ordinary traverse or continue up Climbers' Club Ordinary or Globe and Laurel.
Direct Start, 6b - Start in the shallow cave and bridge out to the lip where a dynamic move is required to grasp the good edge on the original line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A Test-piece. Both Bold and Technical, with some stiff pulls. At the right hand end of the main face is a shallow cave. Start at an obvious hold at the left end of the cave and climb up at first utilizing sidepulls. Move right towards a good edge and up again to a poor one. Finish up the Black groove via laybacks. Belay on the traverse of Climbers Club Ordinary. Often gets mistaken as the original route called piglet wall which climbs to the good hand ledge then traverse R into climbers club ordinary.

Chris Nicholson and Nick White 1985 - The Direct (and more Logical finish) by Ken Palmer in 1991..

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