The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting BirdsKestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
A varied and testing hybrid which is both delicate and strenuous. Start right of Fly on the Wall, at the base of the slabby front face.
1) 5a, 16m. Climb the thin weakness 4m right of the slabby arete to the overhangs. Traverse left under the overhangs to the arete and move awkwardly around it. Climb steeply up and back right above the overhang and belay immediately below an overhanging corner.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb the overhanging corner and at its steepest point use good holds on the left arete to gain easier ground above that leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A varied and testing hybrid which is both delicate and strenuous. Start right of Fly on the Wall at the base of the slabby face.
1) 5a. Climb the weakness 4m right of the slabby arete. Move left under the overhangs to the arete. Move up and back right above the overhang (not direct). Move right again to a belay.
2) 5a. Move back left into the overhanging corner on the arete and follow this to easier climbing.
FA. Silken Thread T.Patey 1958 / Imperialist L.Benstead & D. Morrod 1969.
Kernow , West Country Climbs , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
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