Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The first pitch has spaced protection but the top pitch is excellent. Start at the top of pitch one of Needle Arete.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the blunt rib and step up right onto a slab. Ascend the slab to where another step right gains a short slab and a block above. Pull past the block to a ledge and tree belay.
2) 4b, 14m. Pull up to a left-slanting crack leading to the arete. Climb this to the top of the needle, and step across to belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Good climbing, with an exposed finish.
1) 4a. Just right of the start to Needle Arête is a blunt rib. Climb up to this rib, and step up right, onto a slab. Climb the slab with difficulty, to where a step right
leads onto a short slab, and then climb to a block. Climb over this block to a tree belay. 2) 4b. Climb up the wall to the leftwards, slanting, crack. Follow this crack to the arête. Climb the arête to the top, and step across to belay (those of a nervous disposition may wish to finish up the gully).
Ticklists
Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jcstewart | 20 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: When coming around the block mid way on the climb there is a crack for your left hand. Mint is growing out of this crack. Its just not noticeable that you use this crack as it’s overgrown. You’ll need to use this crack to get passed the move. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: When coming around the block mid way on the climb there is a crack for your left hand. Mint is growing out of this crack. Its just not noticeable that you use this crack as it’s overgrown. You’ll need to use this crack to get passed the move. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Dewerstone
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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The Devil's Slide
Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)