The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting BirdsKestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to pull over and onto the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
VALA 160' HARD VERY SEVERE 5A- (1963) Good strenuous climbing, but there are resting places. Be warned, the cracks ‘eat’ Friends. Start as for Central Groove (Pg 13).
1) 5a-. Climb Central Groove, until it’s possible to move left, and layback round an overhang. Continue up to the main overhang, a long reach directly over this leads to increasingly better holds, and a ledge. Most abseil off, but you can go
2) 4a. Walk down left behind a flake until beneath a small overhang, surmount this to gain a ledge. Overgrown.
3) 5a+. Climb the problematic wall, between the two chimneys, finishing up
a slab. Hard.
Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 2020 Vision , Cream first! , 2023 , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
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