Rockfax Description
The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Start at the base of the corner.Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to a pull over onto the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
VALA 160' HARD VERY SEVERE 5A- (1963) Good strenuous climbing, but there are resting places. Be warned, the cracks ‘eat’ Friends. Start as for Central Groove (Pg 13).
1) 5a-. Climb Central Groove, until it’s possible to move left, and layback round an overhang. Continue up to the main overhang, a long reach directly over this leads to increasingly better holds, and a ledge. Most abseil off, but you can go
on to:
2) 4a. Walk down left behind a flake until beneath a small overhang, surmount this to gain a ledge. Overgrown.
3) 5a+. Climb the problematic wall, between the two chimneys, finishing up
a slab. Hard.
Ticklists
Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 2020 Vision
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 27 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected.. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected.. |
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| petegruf | 18 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side |
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| Jack Barrett-Kelly | 28 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these. |
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| Fiend | 12 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing. |
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| Albie | 4 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top. |
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Logged Ascents
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Formula One
Grade: HVS 5a ***(Lundy)