Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to pull over and onto the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
VALA 160' HARD VERY SEVERE 5A- (1963) Good strenuous climbing, but there are resting places. Be warned, the cracks ‘eat’ Friends. Start as for Central Groove (Pg 13).
1) 5a-. Climb Central Groove, until it’s possible to move left, and layback round an overhang. Continue up to the main overhang, a long reach directly over this leads to increasingly better holds, and a ledge. Most abseil off, but you can go
on to:
2) 4a. Walk down left behind a flake until beneath a small overhang, surmount this to gain a ledge. Overgrown.
3) 5a+. Climb the problematic wall, between the two chimneys, finishing up
a slab. Hard.
Ticklists
Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 2020 Vision , Cream first! , 2023 , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Phil79 | 26 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. |
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| John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected.. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected.. |
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| petegruf | 18 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side | βeta? | |
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βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side |
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| Jack Barrett-Kelly | 28 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these. | βeta? | |
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βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these. |
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| Fiend | 12 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing. |
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| Albie | 4 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Dewerstone
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Formula One
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)