UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.

Rockfax Description
The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to pull over and onto the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
VALA 160' HARD VERY SEVERE 5A- (1963) Good strenuous climbing, but there are resting places. Be warned, the cracks ‘eat’ Friends. Start as for Central Groove (Pg 13).
1) 5a-. Climb Central Groove, until it’s possible to move left, and layback round an overhang. Continue up to the main overhang, a long reach directly over this leads to increasingly better holds, and a ledge. Most abseil off, but you can go
on to:
2) 4a. Walk down left behind a flake until beneath a small overhang, surmount this to gain a ledge. Overgrown.
3) 5a+. Climb the problematic wall, between the two chimneys, finishing up
a slab. Hard.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 2020 Vision , Cream first! , 2023 , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Phil79 26 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind.
John Cuthbert 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected..
Show beta
βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected..
petegruf 18 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side
Jack Barrett-Kelly 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these.
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing.
Albie 4 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top.
Show beta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top.

Logged Ascents

784 users have logged this

Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 72
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last Exit to Torquay

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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