Rockfax Description
The dominating central corner in its entirety is a 'must do'. Start below the corner as for Gates of Eden.
1) 5a, 20m. Pitch 1 of Gates of Eden.
2) 5b, 21m. Move up the corner to the first of two overhanging sections. Pass the first with difficulty and the second via some useful holds on the sheer, right-hand wall of the corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

SamStro 29/Aug 2nd

Great fun squirming up, Juggy with satisfying moves. I used much more energy that necessary but still managed alright. Nice rock.

Oscar Popels 29/Aug Lead O/S

Exciting climbing and location. I found it surprisingly juggy for 5b. The crux of the route was definitely getting to the car par though. Crawling through bushes of stinging nettles and brambles in shorts was tricky. Good stuff though.

with SamStro
Strife 15/Jul AltLd O/S

Amazing route. The overhangs aren't as bad as they look from below, just gotta relax and make some use of the right-hand wall

Jimbob64 15/Jul AltLd

Led pitch 2.

with Simon
R0BJ0N 14/Jul TR O/S
with Steve Price
Rock to Fakey 02/Jul Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. P1 no issues, the mantle has good gear. P2 backed down from 1st overhang 3 or 4 times, placing slightly higher gear before last go, then went over, to nice holds + gear. Top overhang i backed down a little twice, but with another bomber nut i laybacked over + through. Fab route, + excellent top belay spot. Can't wait to do it again. 3.5 hrs though! , hope to knock an hr or 2? off next go! Perhaps do it in 1 on single rope! Gotta say though i found Triton almost the same fight level! Used a smallish green, + blue, dmm cams, 0 or 1 + 2 higher up b4 top overhang, but alternative gear hexes are do-able.

tobydunford 02/Jul 2nd rpt
with Rich
brian watson 24/Jun Lead O/S

In one pitch, very good.

with Mike Hawkins
Paul_southgate68 21/Jun Lead O/S
with katrina prew
Hidden 18/Jun AltLd O/S
felixwilkins 16/Jun AltLd O/S
steveprice.exmouth 01/Jun TR
with Rob Johnson
ClimbingAlex 27/May Lead O/S

Really good climbing - made the most of the bridging opportunities. Great moves and gear all the way.

with Matt
LDJ 13/May Lead
Steve Woollard 10/May AltLd
with Steve Thorpe
m.powell02 02/May AltLd O/S

Lead P1

Hidden 02/May AltLd O/S
alice fuller ?/Apr Lead rpt

1st trad route for a while...and it showed...slow getting the gear placements

Denoir 31/Mar 2nd O/S
UncleMephisto 19/Feb Lead dnf

Bottled for Britain and was lowered off in shame. Intimidating cliff.

Adam Hill 15/Nov/16 AltLd
with Pete
EllieWoods 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 29/Oct/16 Lead

Rested on the gear at the crux move

timreynolds 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S
DredStripe 25/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

led p1+p3

with Tom
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd
Stroppy 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Nice line, done in one, climbed like a bit of a dick

Alex the Alex 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Really good. Ed lead in one pitch.

with Ed, Rog
RKirke 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
mikespooner 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jack Westall
Luke90 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Luke
NickNixon 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
JackM92 30/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Nick Nixon
stuartf 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 22/Jun/16 2nd
with stuartf
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead O/S
aiyer 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead the last pitch

keepguessing ??/2016 Lead
Rory Bascombe 01/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Thijs
shoulders 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

felt like E1. deserves 3 stars. rockfax give E1 and 3*** why not here?

with pete lewis
Hidden 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Bob Peters 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

With Joe and Lill. Thought it was fair E1 but steep limestone not my forte. Took a short rest after trying the first OH wrong. Fantastic line, fantastic gear fantastic climbing. Return trip planned to do this with the first pitch of Gargantua as a sustained OHing E1.

Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
LauraTejada ?/Jul/15 2nd

Pumpy fun

alice fuller 30/Jun/15 Lead β

Excellent climb. Jugs in all the right places to tame the overhangs.Previously seconded Tom Bunn a few years ago.

dbrooks 06/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
with gidmord
gidmord 06/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

Lead first pitch

with Vicky, dbrooks
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd β
cheeky 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
richardashe 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead or through. Matt came up on second.

Lee_Meaden 17/May/15 AltLd
with Luke Robinson
Craggyman 03/May/15 2nd dog

last climb of the day, greasy,got pumped on crux and had to rest.

mattkemp70 ?/May/15 AltLd
with Rich
Jack Porteous 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S
kennythescot 10/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Probably my most favourite HVS ever!

with Luke Robinson
supersouthward 06/Mar/15 -

Really fun, looks exciting from the bottom and proves it on the way up, has a wallnut size 5 before the second overhang if anyone wants to pull it out for me?

with Lee Renshaw
darcan 07/Feb/15 AltLd
with nick
nickstephens 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Darcan
Jonnie Watkins ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
Mr Tickle 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Great line through the stepped overhangs

with Charlotte, RusseyB
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd dog
JBO 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S
clmacdonald 20/Jul/14 AltLd
dbrooks 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

led the 2nd pitch... amazing climbing, loved it. superior line to gates of eden imo

with gidmord
tskelhon 20/Jul/14 AltLd
gidmord 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with dbrooks
Ewan Russell 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
dmaldonado 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, left Ed with the exciting crux in the second pitch.

with Ed Walker
Felix Ottey 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

I took the first pitch, moves are ok gear is really good but man what an intimidating bit of climbing :-) 3 stars!!

Hidden 11/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
ian d f 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Pete H
PaulTanton 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
francois 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy main pitch! Crux is tough to read

with Chawn
tobydunford 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd dog
BelayBunney 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got pumped on 5b overhang and sat in. Gutted. Really nice route though - thoroughly enjoyed it. Want to go back and do it clean now!

gripped01 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Jim Jarvis
Matt77 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Led the first pitch.

with Owen
Owen W-G 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Failed to find any worthy pro for the crux bulge. Had my heel at head height at one point thinking this isn't what HVS usually feel like. Surely E1.

Jack J Keogan 15/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Brilliant climb. Immaculate rock with much better moves than Gates.

with Ewan Davies
ewanthomson 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S

So much fun. Led in one pitch on doubles, no problem with rope drag. 1st overhang harder than 2nd.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 01/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Motown 20/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Mike lead first pitch of Gargantua then belayed before crux of Gates. Made a mess of first overhang by missing crucial 'undercling'. All went fine once I located the big hold in front of my face...

with Mike
Mike_Hayes 16/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Awesome - Best HVS on Limestone?

Kevster 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Stanners 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Epic and Butch!

with James Rich, Mark Davis
JamesRich 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Second pitch only didn't bother to do the first pitch again.

Reds 21/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
althesin 21/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1, not ready to lead P2 yet.

schristophersmith 21/Sep/12 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney 01/Sep/12 Lead

sweaty and polished.

with Tanya Milner
katherinesydney 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden 04/May/12 AltLd
rustaldo 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

a great route! lead it in one long pitch. better than the other HVS and much worthier of the grade. nice moves towards the top using the hand rail on the right-hand wall.

ferdia 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy Pedder
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd
misterb 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt

a shiny new peg(large lost arrow) has been placed by someone a bit lower than you would normally belay at the end of the first pitch.also there is a good condition in situ wire higher up.

with charlie
pete87abs 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley
charlie202 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Nick B
JackHatton 12/Feb/12 Lead dog

i think i need to work on my endurance abit

with kye brooks
JevonJennings ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
burto 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with hertha
Bristoldave 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
domskezz 23/Sep/11 Lead

Great 2nd pitch on big holds.

with Jamma
BDA - changed ?/Sep/11 AltLd
with Mark Meardon
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd dog
just one more 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with tony l
mark schramm 05/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with tom mason
Hidden 03/Aug/11 AltLd
Motown 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Richy
jonnie3430 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
Ross Barnes 23/May/11 AltLd
with Mal
jameshiggins 23/May/11 2nd
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 23/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Burnsie
Hidden 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Tiff
Ceridwen 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with Shona
TiffTiff 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

led p1

with Sophie
Okecroak 03/May/11 2nd
Chris Ebbutt 03/May/11 AltLd
with Dave R.
Frostie 22/Apr/11 AltLd

May be a harder move than 5b, have to go back and may another go at it.

Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd
brynmays 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
brynmays 03/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Davebryant ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown
Ceridwen ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Shona
Shona H ??/2011 2nd
AJH 16/Oct/10 2nd dog

Stunningly unfit compared to when I led it!

with Rob
andy dunn 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

P1 & P3 As onsight as it was going to be having just climbed Gates Of Eden which shared the first pitch

with J
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead
Toby Dunn 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Andy Reeve
James Mitchelmore 13/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
Steerpike 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Bish
misterb 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S

good value for hvs

with sim
nick99 ??/2009 AltLd
with Thom
dan gibson 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
nick99 ??/2008 AltLd
with Mike
Dave Searle ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 25/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Wifey
alaan 24/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Rich
richardr ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 17/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Clara
Hidden 25/May/07 2nd rpt
Justin T 25/May/07 AltLd rpt


with Wifey & Martin
AJH 22/Apr/07 Lead RP

Fell on crux the week before, then led clean

with Crispin
Justin T 21/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Wifey
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 18/Apr/07 2nd dog

Rested on rope trying to remove gear.

with Crispin
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
charlesmfrench 23/May/04 2nd O/S
with Ann Fooks, Dave Fooks
Hidden 14/Apr/02 2nd
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Mickdenali ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Mark Harvey
Simon cook ??/1994 -
Hidden 25/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/90 AltLd O/S
ecowaller ??/1990 -
clark alston ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Compelling line. Great rock.

with Alan Pow
ukb & bmc shark 07/Jul/85 2nd O/S
with Minky
Hidden ?/Nov/84 -
Hidden 15/Sep/84 Lead O/S
mark-abz 29/Oct/80 2nd
with Jerry C
Steve Bell ??/1976 -
with Chris Gibson
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 50
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set