Rockfax Description
The dominating central corner in its entirety is a 'must do'. Start below the corner as for Gates of Eden.
1) 5a, 20m. Pitch 1 of Gates of Eden.
2) 5b, 21m. Move up the corner to the first of two overhanging sections. Pass the first with difficulty and the second via some useful holds on the sheer, right-hand wall of the corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

UncleMephisto 19/Feb Lead dnf

Bottled for Britain and was lowered off in shame. Intimidating cliff.

Adam Hill 15/Nov/16 AltLd
with Pete
timreynolds 29/Oct/16 2nd
EllieWoods 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 29/Oct/16 Lead

Rested on the gear at the crux move

DredStripe 25/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

led p1+p3

with Tom
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd
mikespooner 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jack Westall
Stroppy 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Nice line, done in one, climbed like a bit of a dick

RKirke 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Alex the Alex 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Really good. Ed lead in one pitch.

with Ed, Rog
Luke90 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
NickNixon 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
JackM92 30/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Nick Nixon
stuartf 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 22/Jun/16 2nd
with stuartf
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead O/S
aiyer 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead the last pitch

soloing 9a with out you looking ??/2016 Lead
Rory Bascombe 01/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Thijs
shoulders 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

felt like E1. deserves 3 stars. rockfax give E1 and 3*** why not here?

with pete lewis
Hidden 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Bob Peters 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

With Joe and Lill. Thought it was fair E1 but steep limestone not my forte. Took a short rest after trying the first OH wrong. Fantastic line, fantastic gear fantastic climbing. Return trip planned to do this with the first pitch of Gargantua as a sustained OHing E1.

Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
LauraTejada ?/Jul/15 2nd

Pumpy fun

alice fuller 30/Jun/15 Lead β

Excellent climb. Lots of good indoor-idiot proof gear:) Jugs in all the right places to tame the overhangs.Previously seconded Tom Bunn a few years ago.

dbrooks 06/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
with gidmord
gidmord 06/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

Lead first pitch

with Vicky, dbrooks
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd β
cheeky 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
richardashe 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead or through. Matt came up on second.

Lee_Meaden 17/May/15 AltLd
with Luke Robinson
Craggyman 03/May/15 2nd dog

last climb of the day, greasy,got pumped on crux and had to rest.

Jack Porteous 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S
kennythescot 10/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Probably my most favourite HVS ever!

with Luke Robinson
supersouthward 06/Mar/15 -

Really fun, looks exciting from the bottom and proves it on the way up, has a wallnut size 5 before the second overhang if anyone wants to pull it out for me?

with Lee Renshaw
darcan 07/Feb/15 AltLd
with nick
nickstephens 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Darcan
Jonnie Watkins ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
Mr Tickle 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Great line through the stepped overhangs

with Charlotte, RusseyB
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd dog
JBO 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S
dbrooks 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

led the 2nd pitch... amazing climbing, loved it. superior line to gates of eden imo

with gidmord
gidmord 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with dbrooks
tskelhon 20/Jul/14 AltLd
clmacdonald 20/Jul/14 AltLd
Ewan Russell 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
dmaldonado 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, left Ed with the exciting crux in the second pitch.

with Ed Walker
Felix Ottey 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

I took the first pitch, moves are ok gear is really good but man what an intimidating bit of climbing :-) 3 stars!!

Hidden 11/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
ian d f 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Pete H
PaulTanton 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
francois 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy main pitch! Crux is tough to read

with Chawn
tobydunford 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
BelayBunney 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got pumped on 5b overhang and sat in. Gutted. Really nice route though - thoroughly enjoyed it. Want to go back and do it clean now!

Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd dog
gripped01 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Jim Jarvis
Owen W-G 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Failed to find any worthy pro for the crux bulge. Had my heel at head height at one point thinking this isn't what HVS usually feel like. Surely E1.

Matt77 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Led the first pitch.

with Owen
Jack J Keogan 15/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Brilliant climb. Immaculate rock with much better moves than Gates.

with Ewan Davies
ewanthomson 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S

So much fun. Led in one pitch on doubles, no problem with rope drag. 1st overhang harder than 2nd.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 01/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Motown 20/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Mike lead first pitch of Gargantua then belayed before crux of Gates. Made a mess of first overhang by missing crucial 'undercling'. All went fine once I located the big hold in front of my face...

with Mike
Mike_Hayes 16/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Awesome - Best HVS on Limestone?

Kevster 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
JamesRich 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Second pitch only didn't bother to do the first pitch again.

Stanners 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Epic and Butch!

with James Rich, Mark Davis
althesin 21/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1, not ready to lead P2 yet.

Reds 21/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
schristophersmith 21/Sep/12 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney 01/Sep/12 Lead

sweaty and polished.

with Tanya Milner
katherinesydney 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/12 2nd dog
rustaldo 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

a great route! lead it in one long pitch. better than the other HVS and much worthier of the grade. nice moves towards the top using the hand rail on the right-hand wall.

Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd
ferdia 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy
misterb 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt

a shiny new peg(large lost arrow) has been placed by someone a bit lower than you would normally belay at the end of the first pitch.also there is a good condition in situ wire higher up.

with charlie
pete87abs 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley
charlie202 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Nick B
JackHatton 12/Feb/12 Lead dog

i think i need to work on my endurance abit

with kye brooks
JevonJennings ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
burto 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with hertha
Bristoldave 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
domskezz 23/Sep/11 Lead

Great 2nd pitch on big holds.

with Jamma
BDA - changed ?/Sep/11 AltLd
with Mark Meardon
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd dog
just one more 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with tony l
mark schramm 05/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with tom mason
Motown 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Richy
Hidden 03/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Burnsie
Ross Barnes 23/May/11 AltLd
with Mal
Neil Adams 23/May/11 Lead O/S
jameshiggins 23/May/11 2nd
with Neil Adams
jonnie3430 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
Ceridwen 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with Shona
Sophie Nunn 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Tiff
TiffTiff 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

led p1

with Sophie
Chris Ebbutt 03/May/11 AltLd
with Dave R.
Okecroak 03/May/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd
Frostie 22/Apr/11 AltLd

May be a harder move than 5b, have to go back and may another go at it.

brynmays 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
brynmays 03/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Davebryant ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown
Shona H ??/2011 2nd
Ceridwen ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Shona
AJH 16/Oct/10 2nd dog

Stunningly unfit compared to when I led it!

with Rob
andy dunn 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

P1 & P3 As onsight as it was going to be having just climbed Gates Of Eden which shared the first pitch

with J
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead
Toby Dunn 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Andy Reeve
James Mitchelmore 13/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
Steerpike 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Bish
misterb 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S

good value for hvs

with sim
nick99 ??/2009 AltLd
with Thom
dan gibson 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
nick99 ??/2008 AltLd
with Mike
Dave Searle ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 25/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Wifey
alaan 24/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Rich
richardr ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 17/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Clara
Hidden 25/May/07 2nd rpt
Justin T 25/May/07 AltLd rpt


with Wifey & Martin
AJH 22/Apr/07 Lead RP

Fell on crux the week before, then led clean

with Crispin
Justin T 21/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Wifey
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 18/Apr/07 2nd dog

Rested on rope trying to remove gear.

with Crispin
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
charlesmfrench 23/May/04 2nd O/S
with Ann Fooks, Dave Fooks
Hidden 14/Apr/02 2nd
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Mickdenali ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Mark Harvey
Simon cook ??/1994 -
Hidden 25/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/90 AltLd O/S
ecowaller ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S
ukb shark 07/Jul/85 2nd O/S
with Minky
Nevil ?/Nov/84 -
Hidden 15/Sep/84 Lead O/S
mark-abz 29/Oct/80 2nd
with Jerry C
Steve Bell ??/1976 -
with Chris Gibson
12 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set