Rockfax Description
A little travelled but adventurous climb. Start under a bulge just below the saddle on the side that faces Needle Buttress.
1) 5b, 20m. Move up to the top of the bulge by swinging out left over the void, and then traverse left to a spike. Continue left into a small niche, and then move back up rightwards over steep ground to gain a tree and large vegetated ledge.
2) 5b, 13m. Cross the vegetated ledge to clean rock on the left. Move up to a niche at the base of a hanging corner/arete - peg. Hard moves over the bulge past another peg allow access to a steep crack system above that leads leftwards to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Begin at the saddle between Lower and Upper Raven Buttress. Move (cautiously) to the top of a vegetated gully on the Needle Buttress side and begin beneath a clean bulge overhung with lots of ivy.
P1. 5b. Gain the top of the initial bulge by swinging out left over the void, and traverse left to a good bollard/spike. Continue left into a small niche, and then move back up rightwards on curious holds over steep ground to gain a tree and large vegetated ledge.
P2. 5c. Jungle-bash across the ledge to gain clean rock on the left. Move up to a niche at the base of a hanging corner/arete (peg). Tough moves over the bulge past another peg allow access to a crack system above which is followed to the top.
Variation - P2. 5b. From the niche and lower peg continue to traverse left to a bollard/spike. Stand on top of this (with possible help from a tree branch) and follow spaced crimps diagonally rightwards to regain the crack system just before the top.

1977.

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