155m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at the Dewerstone. It features two sustained crack-pitches, each hard to fault. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Immediately pull rightwards onto a good large spike, then climb the steep crack above with difficulty to a large bollard-belay.
2) 5a, 26m. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner on Climbers' Club Ordinary. Climb the corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault.
1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay.
2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b. Climb the corner to the top.

FA. M.Rabley 1962. FFA L. Benstead & D. Morrod 1969

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Extreme 2018.

beni 04/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Annika
Hidden 17/Sep/17 Lead
Ian MK 15/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Anna
Tom.Sedgwick 15/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Link-up with fruitflancase. I lead the first pitch of fruitflancase and Chris finished on the second pitch of Gideon.

with Chris Spencer
melv 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Fi
Hidden 02/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Phil79 25/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Steve H
Hidden 19/Jun/17 Lead O/S
perrys 16/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

I led P1. Amazing fingery move going up the groove.

with George Evans
Brian H 28/May/17 Lead rpt

Led p1. Pete finished up the excellent top pitch of Ultimate Eliminate Direct - good combination

Mattholland96 23/May/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/17 Lead dog
Jack Porteous 07/May/17 Lead dog
felixwilkins 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
LDJ 23/Apr/17 2nd
with Simon
timreynolds 17/Apr/17 Lead rpt

P2 only, with the CCD Sting in the Tail

Dominic Acland 17/Apr/17 2nd

P2 only

with Tim Reynolds
LDJ 16/Apr/17 Lead
poeter210 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
m.powell02 13/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Gemma
gem_stone12 13/Mar/17 2nd
with Matty P
rholdswo 26/Aug/16 TR O/S

(ropeman) solo

Luke90 10/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Remembered halfway up that I don't know how to jam. Struggled on using the crack of fruitflancase as well until it started pouring with rain and backed off from near the end of the first pitch.

with Liz
Rob Moorcroft 31/Jul/16 2nd
with Richard Ive
Stanners 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic but a hard second half of the first pitch. Tough E1. Cant beat a good jamming struggle.

with James Rich
JamesRich 30/Jul/16 2nd dog
Tom Seccombe 31/May/16 Lead O/S
Phil79 01/Apr/16 AltLd dog

2nd and 3rd pitch. Rested on gear after cocking up moves on 2nd pitch crack.

with Steve H
waydan 31/Mar/16 AltLd

Nice bit of crack climbing

Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 07/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead dog
John Tanner 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, both pitches. I led pitch 1 and found out pumpy.

gidmord 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Finally climbed the route I share a name with... Lead second pitch

with John Tanner
Laura Faye 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
jeremyvanr 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
clubmanpete 23/Jun/15 Lead

Second pitch only

Matt77 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1.

with Shane
islandlynx 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led the easier pitch 2. I'm not sure I've done a pitch with better gear. Moving into the crack on pitch 1 was interesting.

Phil79 10/Jun/15 2nd dog

Lacking stamina

with Steve H
clubmanpete 04/Jun/15 Lead

Second pitch only as variation to avoid nest on cc Brilliant climbing and easy for a 5a I would say.

dbrooks 28/May/15 Lead O/S

been putting this off for a while, led in one long pitch without any problems, great route

with Gareth
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd O/S
matt_read 20/May/15 2nd O/S
brian watson 15/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 15/May/15 -
alice fuller 04/Apr/15 Lead RP

2nd George before. Checked out gear and moves before Pete persauded me to "have a go"...

alastairbegley 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Felt pretty hard for E1, fantastic sustained climbing!

Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd dog
OllieF 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Went off route from climbers club.... Second pitch only, oops.

with Ant
Ewan Russell 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
Sophie Nunn 02/May/14 Lead O/S

P2 only after p1 fruitflancase

with Richard
Luxulyan 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Hidden 21/Apr/14 AltLd dog
Hidden 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Jevans ?/Apr/14 AltLd

Lead second pitch

Paul_southgate68 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S


Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead dnf
snook 09/Jul/13 2nd dog

Only had chance to do the first pitch which Colin Tambling lead (fair play!) as it got too dark to carry on. Rested once after the spike as did not spot the high foot move to take you up into the jug section. Bugger. Looking forward to doing it again when we have a bit more time on the route.

Hidden 09/Jul/13 2nd dnf
richsmithinbristol 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

First pitch lead

shoulders 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
LDJ 02/Jun/13 Lead
with Lou
metal arms 30/May/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

Ed morris 23/May/13 Lead O/S

Felt less sustained than fruitflancase.

with Ian
hornbywill 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Jordon Fleming 08/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

pl- will me- p2&3 linked

burto 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
john lynch 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

excellent, lead top pitch

with lewis stuart
Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Jack.Luckhurst 28/Mar/13 Lead β
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
willhornby ??/2013 -
Robin Woodward ?/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd
mark schramm 19/May/12 Lead dog

Had one rest. Should have just gone for it as I had 3 bomber bits of gear. Guidebook is right about he who hesitates is lost!

with Lyndsay
Mr-Cowdrey 08/Jan/12 Lead dnf

took a fall on to the peg after pulling round the overhang, busted my knee on the base of the hanging slab so lowered off and abbed down from the top to retreive my gear. Pretty gutted really as it's been on my ticklist for some time.

with chris ridgers
Tristan Sherlock 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Night Climb with headtorch

El3ctroFuzz 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

7pm climbing by head torch. Slab was soaked, and crack was pretty hard! P1 for me - P2 and P3 linked by Tris.

with Tristan Sherlock
p2-melhuish ?/Oct/11 Lead
Mark Kemball 30/Sep/11 AltLd rpt
with Simon Hammond
Bristoldave 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
CarolineH 29/Sep/11 2nd dog

1 fall right at the end of the crux (at the jugs-pumped) Excellent route

with Dave
Graeme Hammond 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S

excellent!!! led both pitches

with Becky E
Becky E 28/Aug/11 2nd dog

The slab was okay, then it all went wrong after moving round onto the steep stuff.

Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Harder than Fruitflancase but also bit mucky. Led as one pitch. Got sketchy round the central crack after leaving the spike, nuts started lifting out on me! Wot a bugger

Si ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Greg
Bob M 30/Jun/11 AltLd

Paul led crux pitch - tough jamming, needed to hang on rope to remove runners. Best combo here is pitch 1 of Fruitflancase and pitch 2 of Gideon.

tcn_2002 19/Jun/11 AltLd
quiffhanger 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Mike Reading
Frostie 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
thomb 07/Nov/10 Lead

not clean. great route, coming back for it when it's dry!

with Darren
Justin T 16/Oct/10 2nd
with Cherry
Dilwat 24/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jonnyridleylogan 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Fannyed about in the groove to long and ended up downclimbing too knackered.

_m.cox_ ?/Jul/10 2nd β
with Jason Williams, Tom Harrison
Jack_F ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great route! lots of fun!

with Max hodges
Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
MH123 04/Jun/10 2nd dnf
Marti999 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
rockferret 08/Jul/09 Lead rpt

My first E1 lead. Have top ropped the first pitch previously, but on-sighted the second pitch. Wedging in and resting in the niche before the crux very important. Very pleased.

with Tony
Popkids 08/Jul/09 2nd rpt

This was Martins first E1 lead, excellant lead.I managed to second it clean.

with Martin
rockferret 16/Jun/09 TR rpt

Thanks to Pete for giving up his time to let me spec this for the lead.

with Pete and Pedro
Mike_Hayes 04/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Nolan Smyth
graham knott 22/May/09 AltLd dog

First E1 climb. 1 fall at crux of 1st pitch. (Did the moves but Peeled off some perfectly good jugs after too much hanging around! Led 2nd pitch. Awesome climb! Will have to try it again..

with Nolan
Rock Lizard ?/May/09 2nd
cem 13/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Steerpike 08/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Tommo
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Frostie ??/2009 Lead
with various, Roy Harris
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
mike88 04/Sep/08 Lead dog


with JAmes Codner
Popkids 11/Jun/08 TR dog

Really struggled on this one.

with Kafoozalem
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
RobSteere 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
rockferret ??/2008 TR dog
with Pete
sebrider ??/2008 Lead dog

Fluffed the crux!

with Roby Rudolf
sebrider ??/2008 Lead dog
cmsg 12/Aug/06 Lead dnf

Tired myself out, unfortunately. Should have been more gung-ho. As the guidebook says, "He who hesitates on the crux is lost." Was completed by a rather hardcore bloke, Toby, who proffered the opinion that it's at the very top of the grade. So that's okay, then.

with Luke Gannarelli
Hidden 23/May/06 Lead O/S
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden 14/Sep/04 Lead O/S
crater 09/Jun/04 2nd

pitch 2 only

with sam
tom.e ??/2004 2nd dog
with Charlie Everett
Gibson27 ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/03 Lead
Mark Kemball 24/Apr/03 AltLd
with Nic Dill
goi.ashmore 23/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2003 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
cem 06/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
NickP ??/2000 -
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
timreynolds 07/Jun/95 2nd

2nd pitch only, after CCO pitch 1

Nigel Coe 23/Sep/92 TR


kp64zl ?/Oct/91 Lead
with Simon T
Hidden 13/Apr/91 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/91 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1990 -
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ?/Dec/89 Lead O/S
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
Simon cook ??/1986 -
Hidden 21/Oct/84 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/82 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
RichardMc 03/Aug/69 2nd

HVS and A1 in those days

with Ian MacPherson
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set