155m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at the Dewerstone. It features two sustained crack-pitches, each hard to fault. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Immediately pull rightwards onto a good large spike, then climb the steep crack above with difficulty to a large bollard-belay.
2) 5a, 26m. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner on Climbers' Club Ordinary. Climb the corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault.
1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay.
2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b. Climb the corner to the top.

FA. M.Rabley 1962. FFA L. Benstead & D. Morrod 1969

Ticklists

Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Extreme 2018, The E1 UK Roadtrip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
naomi97 21 Sep 2nd
with jackob
with jackob
jackob 21 Sep Lead O/S Brilliant route! Climbed as one monster pitch!
with naomi97
Brilliant route! Climbed as one monster pitch!
with naomi97
rohanpawlowski 30 Aug Lead RP
with Cbulman
with Cbulman
Cbulman 30 Aug AltLd rpt
DubyaJamesDubya 20 Aug Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
with Ian Smith
Harry Martin 17 Aug Lead O/S
with Hayley Russell
with Hayley Russell
Hidden 5 Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Jul Lead O/S
rohanpawlowski 10 May Lead dog Luke had an absolute stinker, then took me off belay lol
Luke had an absolute stinker, then took me off belay lol
professorcobra 11 Apr AltLd O/S
alexbooker87 11 Apr 2nd
Hidden 11 Apr Lead O/S
Cbulman 30 Mar AltLd O/S
fammer 21 Oct, 2018 AltLd I led second pitch, good lead from Alex on the first.
with Alex
I led second pitch, good lead from Alex on the first.
with Alex
Stuckey 25 Aug, 2018 AltLd
kennythescot 25 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Stuckey
with Stuckey
dbrooks 21 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt nice to do the 3 classic Dewerstone E1s in an evening
nice to do the 3 classic Dewerstone E1s in an evening
Dexter JW 21 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
markvaughan 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd
WilliamRupp 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
R0BJ0N 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Steve Price
with Steve Price
TristanBT 1 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S 2ed second pitch
2ed second pitch
Adam Henderson 22 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 2nd
DredStripe 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Master Chief 15 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog Got pumped trying to get a nut out on first pitch; so had to rest on rope! Great climb with fantastic moves!
with Spearos
Got pumped trying to get a nut out on first pitch; so had to rest on rope! Great climb with fantastic moves!
with Spearos
Spearos 15 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog While reaching for the spike!
While reaching for the spike!
EllieWoods 28 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Alex
with Alex
robgixer 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S P2 only
P2 only
Hidden 27 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
beni 4 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Annika Marie 4 Nov, 2017 2nd β
with beni
with beni
Hidden 17 Sep, 2017 Lead
Harry Martin ?Sep, 2017 Lead
Ian MK 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
CmSpencer 15 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Link-up with fruitflancase. I 2nd the first pitch of fruitflancase and Lead on the second pitch of Gideon.
with Tom Sedgwick
Link-up with fruitflancase. I 2nd the first pitch of fruitflancase and Lead on the second pitch of Gideon.
with Tom Sedgwick
Tom.Sedgwick 15 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Link-up with fruitflancase. I lead the first pitch of fruitflancase and Chris finished on the second pitch of Gideon.
with Chris Spencer
Link-up with fruitflancase. I lead the first pitch of fruitflancase and Chris finished on the second pitch of Gideon.
with Chris Spencer
melv 8 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Fi
with Fi
Octavian 2 Jul, 2017 Lead
Phil79 25 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Mihkel 19 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S I led both pitches. The granite jams on P1 felt insecure in the searing heat and I had to fight a little. On P2, I opted for the short offwidth on the right at the top, rather than the pleasant looking corner.
with Harry Raw
I led both pitches. The granite jams on P1 felt insecure in the searing heat and I had to fight a little. On P2, I opted for the short offwidth on the right at the top, rather than the pleasant looking corner.
with Harry Raw
perrys 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S I led P1. Amazing fingery move going up the groove.
with George Evans
I led P1. Amazing fingery move going up the groove.
with George Evans
Brian H 28 May, 2017 Lead rpt Led p1. Pete finished up the excellent top pitch of Ultimate Eliminate Direct - good combination
Led p1. Pete finished up the excellent top pitch of Ultimate Eliminate Direct - good combination
Mattholland96 23 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with JakeB.
with JakeB.
Hidden 23 May, 2017 Lead dog
Jack Porteous 7 May, 2017 Lead dog
felixwilkins 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
LDJ 23 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Simon
with Simon
timreynolds 17 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt P2 only, with the CCD Sting in the Tail
P2 only, with the CCD Sting in the Tail
Dominic Acland 17 Apr, 2017 2nd P2 only
with Tim Reynolds
P2 only
with Tim Reynolds
LDJ 16 Apr, 2017 Lead
poeter210 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with druss
with druss
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
m.powell02 13 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 13 Mar, 2017 2nd
rholdswo 26 Aug, 2016 TR O/S (ropeman) solo
(ropeman) solo
Luke90 10 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Remembered halfway up that I don't know how to jam. Struggled on using the crack of fruitflancase as well until it started pouring with rain and backed off from near the end of the first pitch.
Remembered halfway up that I don't know how to jam. Struggled on using the crack of fruitflancase as well until it started pouring with rain and backed off from near the end of the first pitch.
Rob Moorcroft 31 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Richard Ive
with Richard Ive
Stanners 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic but a hard second half of the first pitch. Tough E1. Cant beat a good jamming struggle.
with James Rich
Fantastic but a hard second half of the first pitch. Tough E1. Cant beat a good jamming struggle.
with James Rich
JamesRich 30 Jul, 2016 2nd dog
Tom Seccombe 31 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Phil79 1 Apr, 2016 AltLd dog 2nd and 3rd pitch. Rested on gear after cocking up moves on 2nd pitch crack.
2nd and 3rd pitch. Rested on gear after cocking up moves on 2nd pitch crack.
waydan 31 Mar, 2016 AltLd Nice bit of crack climbing
Nice bit of crack climbing
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 5 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
John Tanner 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Great route, both pitches. I led pitch 1 and found out pumpy.
with gidmord
Great route, both pitches. I led pitch 1 and found out pumpy.
with gidmord
gidmord 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Finally climbed the route I share a name with... Lead second pitch
with John Tanner
Finally climbed the route I share a name with... Lead second pitch
with John Tanner
Laura Faye 11 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
jeremyvanr 11 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
clubmanpete 23 Jun, 2015 Lead Second pitch only
Second pitch only
Matt77 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S I led pitch 1.
with Shane
I led pitch 1.
with Shane
islandlynx 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led the easier pitch 2. I'm not sure I've done a pitch with better gear. Moving into the crack on pitch 1 was interesting.
with Matt77
Led the easier pitch 2. I'm not sure I've done a pitch with better gear. Moving into the crack on pitch 1 was interesting.
with Matt77
Phil79 10 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Lacking stamina
Lacking stamina
clubmanpete 4 Jun, 2015 Lead Second pitch only as variation to avoid nest on cc Brilliant climbing and easy for a 5a I would say.
Second pitch only as variation to avoid nest on cc Brilliant climbing and easy for a 5a I would say.
dbrooks 28 May, 2015 Lead O/S been putting this off for a while, led in one long pitch without any problems, great route
with Gareth
been putting this off for a while, led in one long pitch without any problems, great route
with Gareth
Hidden 26 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
matt_read 20 May, 2015 2nd O/S
brian watson 15 May, 2015 AltLd
scott titt 15 May, 2015 -
alice fuller 4 Apr, 2015 Lead RP 2nd George before. Checked out gear and moves before Pete persauded me to "have a go"...
2nd George before. Checked out gear and moves before Pete persauded me to "have a go"...
alastairbegley 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Felt pretty hard for E1, fantastic sustained climbing!
Felt pretty hard for E1, fantastic sustained climbing!
Hidden 31 Aug, 2014 2nd dog
OllieF 24 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S Went off route from climbers club.... Second pitch only, oops.
with Ant
Went off route from climbers club.... Second pitch only, oops.
with Ant
Ewan Russell 11 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
with Tom Nichols
Sophie Nunn 2 May, 2014 Lead O/S P2 only after p1 fruitflancase
P2 only after p1 fruitflancase
Luxulyan 2 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd dog
Hidden 12 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Jevans ?Apr, 2014 AltLd Lead second pitch
Lead second pitch
Paul_southgate68 26 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Wow!
Wow!
Hidden 8 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
snook 9 Jul, 2013 2nd dog Only had chance to do the first pitch which Colin Tambling lead (fair play!) as it got too dark to carry on. Rested once after the spike as did not spot the high foot move to take you up into the jug section. Bugger. Looking forward to doing it again when we have a bit more time on the route.
Only had chance to do the first pitch which Colin Tambling lead (fair play!) as it got too dark to carry on. Rested once after the spike as did not spot the high foot move to take you up into the jug section. Bugger. Looking forward to doing it again when we have a bit more time on the route.
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 2nd dnf
richsmithinbristol 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S First pitch lead
First pitch lead
shoulders 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
LDJ 2 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Lou
with Lou
metal arms 30 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Ed morris 23 May, 2013 Lead O/S Felt less sustained than fruitflancase.
with Ian
Felt less sustained than fruitflancase.
with Ian
hornbywill 18 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Jordon Fleming 8 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S pl- will me- p2&3 linked
pl- will me- p2&3 linked
burto 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with hertha
with hertha
john lynch 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S excellent, lead top pitch
with lewis stuart
excellent, lead top pitch
with lewis stuart
Hidden 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jack.Luckhurst 28 Mar, 2013 Lead β
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
willhornby ??, 2013 -
Robin Woodward ?Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 May, 2012 2nd
Hidden 19 May, 2012 Lead dog
Mr-Cowdrey 8 Jan, 2012 Lead dnf took a fall on to the peg after pulling round the overhang, busted my knee on the base of the hanging slab so lowered off and abbed down from the top to retreive my gear. Pretty gutted really as it's been on my ticklist for some time.
with chris ridgers
took a fall on to the peg after pulling round the overhang, busted my knee on the base of the hanging slab so lowered off and abbed down from the top to retreive my gear. Pretty gutted really as it's been on my ticklist for some time.
with chris ridgers
Tristan Sherlock 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S Night Climb with headtorch
Night Climb with headtorch
bunn.aroundthebloc 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S 7pm climbing by head torch. Slab was soaked, and crack was pretty hard! P1 for me - P2 and P3 linked by Tris.
with Tristan Sherlock
7pm climbing by head torch. Slab was soaked, and crack was pretty hard! P1 for me - P2 and P3 linked by Tris.
with Tristan Sherlock
p2-melhuish ?Oct, 2011 Lead
Mark Kemball 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd rpt
with Simon Hammond
with Simon Hammond
Bristoldave 29 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
CarolineH 29 Sep, 2011 2nd dog 1 fall right at the end of the crux (at the jugs-pumped) Excellent route
1 fall right at the end of the crux (at the jugs-pumped) Excellent route
Graeme Hammond 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S excellent!!! led both pitches
with Becky E
excellent!!! led both pitches
with Becky E
Becky E 28 Aug, 2011 2nd dog The slab was okay, then it all went wrong after moving round onto the steep stuff.
The slab was okay, then it all went wrong after moving round onto the steep stuff.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 25 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Harder than Fruitflancase but also bit mucky. Led as one pitch. Got sketchy round the central crack after leaving the spike, nuts started lifting out on me! Wot a bugger
Harder than Fruitflancase but also bit mucky. Led as one pitch. Got sketchy round the central crack after leaving the spike, nuts started lifting out on me! Wot a bugger
Si ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Bob M 30 Jun, 2011 AltLd Paul led crux pitch - tough jamming, needed to hang on rope to remove runners. Best combo here is pitch 1 of Fruitflancase and pitch 2 of Gideon.
with riggy
Paul led crux pitch - tough jamming, needed to hang on rope to remove runners. Best combo here is pitch 1 of Fruitflancase and pitch 2 of Gideon.
with riggy
tcn_2002 19 Jun, 2011 AltLd
quiffhanger 10 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?Apr, 2011 Lead
with Mike Reading
with Mike Reading
Frostie 22 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden 22 Mar, 2011 2nd
David Sherratt ??, 2011 Lead O/S
thomb 7 Nov, 2010 Lead not clean. great route, coming back for it when it's dry!
not clean. great route, coming back for it when it's dry!
Justin T 16 Oct, 2010 2nd
Dilwat 24 Sep, 2010 2nd dog
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
jonnyridleylogan 30 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf Fannyed about in the groove to long and ended up downclimbing too knackered.
Fannyed about in the groove to long and ended up downclimbing too knackered.
_m.cox_ ?Jul, 2010 2nd β
with Jason Williams, tom harrison
with Jason Williams, tom harrison
Jack_F ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Great route! lots of fun!
with Max hodges
Great route! lots of fun!
with Max hodges
Hidden 6 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
MH123 4 Jun, 2010 2nd dnf
with Jack_F
with Jack_F
Marti999 24 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 15 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
rockferret 8 Jul, 2009 Lead rpt My first E1 lead. Have top ropped the first pitch previously, but on-sighted the second pitch. Wedging in and resting in the niche before the crux very important. Very pleased.
with Tony
My first E1 lead. Have top ropped the first pitch previously, but on-sighted the second pitch. Wedging in and resting in the niche before the crux very important. Very pleased.
with Tony
Popkids 8 Jul, 2009 2nd rpt This was Martins first E1 lead, excellant lead.I managed to second it clean.
with Martin
This was Martins first E1 lead, excellant lead.I managed to second it clean.
with Martin
rockferret 16 Jun, 2009 TR rpt Thanks to Pete for giving up his time to let me spec this for the lead.
with Pete and Pedro
Thanks to Pete for giving up his time to let me spec this for the lead.
with Pete and Pedro
Mike_Hayes 4 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
with Nolan Smyth
with Nolan Smyth
graham knott 22 May, 2009 AltLd dog First E1 climb. 1 fall at crux of 1st pitch. (Did the moves but Peeled off some perfectly good jugs after too much hanging around! Led 2nd pitch. Awesome climb! Will have to try it again..
with Nolan
First E1 climb. 1 fall at crux of 1st pitch. (Did the moves but Peeled off some perfectly good jugs after too much hanging around! Led 2nd pitch. Awesome climb! Will have to try it again..
with Nolan
Rock Lizard ?May, 2009 2nd
cem 13 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Steerpike 8 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Tommo
with Tommo
paulh1967 ??, 2009 -
Frostie ??, 2009 Lead
with various, Roy Harris
with various, Roy Harris
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
mike88 4 Sep, 2008 Lead dog Hard!
with JAmes Codner
Hard!
with JAmes Codner
Popkids 11 Jun, 2008 TR dog Really struggled on this one.
with Kafoozalem
Really struggled on this one.
with Kafoozalem
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 AltLd
RobSteere 16 Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
with John Axeworthy
Hidden ?Apr, 2008 AltLd
rockferret ??, 2008 TR dog
with Pete
with Pete
sebrider ??, 2008 Lead dog Fluffed the crux!
with Roby Rudolf
Fluffed the crux!
with Roby Rudolf
sebrider ??, 2008 Lead dog
cmsg 12 Aug, 2006 Lead dnf Tired myself out, unfortunately. Should have been more gung-ho. As the guidebook says, "He who hesitates on the crux is lost." Was completed by a rather hardcore bloke, Toby, who proffered the opinion that it's at the very top of the grade. So that's okay, then.
with Luke Gannarelli
Tired myself out, unfortunately. Should have been more gung-ho. As the guidebook says, "He who hesitates on the crux is lost." Was completed by a rather hardcore bloke, Toby, who proffered the opinion that it's at the very top of the grade. So that's okay, then.
with Luke Gannarelli
Hidden 23 May, 2006 Lead O/S
leadmat ??, 2006 Lead
leadmat ??, 2006 -
feilx ??, 2005 -
Hidden 14 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
crater 9 Jun, 2004 2nd pitch 2 only
with sam
pitch 2 only
with sam
tom.e ??, 2004 2nd dog
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
Gibson27 ??, 2004 AltLd
Hidden 18 Aug, 2003 Lead
Mark Kemball 24 Apr, 2003 AltLd
with Nic Dill
with Nic Dill
goi.ashmore 23 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
with Myles Jordan
Hidden 20 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt ??, 2003 Lead O/S
cem 6 Oct, 2002 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
with James Gregory
NickP ??, 2000 -
andy_pemberton ??, 2000 Lead
timreynolds 7 Jun, 1995 2nd 2nd pitch only, after CCO pitch 1
with sdht
2nd pitch only, after CCO pitch 1
with sdht
Nigel Coe 23 Sep, 1992 TR Shunted
Shunted
kylo-342 ?Oct, 1991 Lead
with Simon T
with Simon T
Hidden 13 Apr, 1991 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 1991 Lead O/S
sdht ??, 1990 -
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1990 Lead
Hidden ?Dec, 1989 Lead O/S
daviesdan ??, 1989 Lead
Simon cook ??, 1986 -
Hidden 21 Oct, 1984 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Oct, 1982 Lead
Steve Bell ??, 1979 -
clanger ??, 1973 -
clanger ??, 1973 -
RichardMc 3 Aug, 1969 2nd HVS and A1 in those days
with Ian MacPherson
HVS and A1 in those days
with Ian MacPherson
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 30
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set