UKC

11m.

Rockfax Description
Unusual and awkward climbing up a layback pod making good use of crimps and kneebars. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25/Feb/1995.

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship , Portland , The New Cuttings Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
P Natl 7 Jul Show βeta
βeta: WARNING: The topo in the 2021 edition/app of the Rockfax guidebook is wrong (just check e.g. CC’s 2008 guidebook or earlier Rockfax editions). The route trends left to join The Unworthy after the third staple. No need to add or remove anything.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING: The topo in the 2021 edition/app of the Rockfax guidebook is wrong (just check e.g. CC’s 2008 guidebook or earlier Rockfax editions). The route trends left to join The Unworthy after the third staple. No need to add or remove anything.
NatureMercenary 14 Apr Show βeta
βeta: There does not appear to be an anchor at the spot indicated on the Rockfax app for this climb. Dodgy one. After considering options (climbing past the chossy looking corner in the hope to find the anchor) Climber bailed onto the anchor of the climb to the right of this one. It would not have been a nice fall slamming back the wall had he slipped on delicated moves while traversing. With hindsight we should have stepped back onto the path before to check anchor/how many bolts, and definitely should have asked someone at the crag to have a look for us when considering options. Climbing further could have been catastrophic. Think bolts should be chopped or anchor replaced
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There does not appear to be an anchor at the spot indicated on the Rockfax app for this climb. Dodgy one. After considering options (climbing past the chossy looking corner in the hope to find the anchor) Climber bailed onto the anchor of the climb to the right of this one. It would not have been a nice fall slamming back the wall had he slipped on delicated moves while traversing. With hindsight we should have stepped back onto the path before to check anchor/how many bolts, and definitely should have asked someone at the crag to have a look for us when considering options. Climbing further could have been catastrophic. Think bolts should be chopped or anchor replaced
Ben Stokes 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A boulder problem with bolts. Easiest on a crisp cold day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A boulder problem with bolts. Easiest on a crisp cold day.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for The New Cuttings

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Hump

Grade: 7b ***
(Tilly Whim)

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