UKC

6m.

Rockfax Description
A fine technical challenge up the centre of the wall. Once the hardest problem in Dorset. A sit-start can be added, but there is no real increase in grade or quality. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pete Oxley did the original ascent via a long dyno from the pinch to a two finger undercut. Which he felt was the hardest move on Portland. Jim Kimber then found an easier method at 7B. Todays method as per Instagram uses various crimps and was suggested by Pete to be 7A but high in the grade, ever so slightly left of the original line.

FA. Pete Oxley 11.5.1991. Once the Isle's hardest problem..

Ticklists

Dorset Bouldering Top 50 , 2022 Goals , Southern 7B Boulderer , Portland Pyramid Builder , Portland fun , Portland - The Boulders

Feedback

User Date Notes
VezzaD 29 Jan, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Was close to finishing so need to go back with mroe skin and get it. Can't reach the diagonal crimp high up though so need to footswap on the crimp rail below and get my right foot slightly higher first.
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Was close to finishing so need to go back with mroe skin and get it. Can't reach the diagonal crimp high up though so need to footswap on the crimp rail below and get my right foot slightly higher first.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Winkle Picker Direct

Grade: f7B ***
(Lighthouse Area)

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