38m.
The 'War And Peace' of Devonian sport climbing, this one goes on and on...and on! Four chapters each with their own distinct character, getting progressively more challenging as height is gained.
Some long draws may come in useful to straighten out the kinks!
Chapter 1: Snafu Bulge (6a+) As for Long Dong Johnson, climb the initial overhanging wall past four bolts to reach the first ledge system.
Chapter 2: Cobbled Arete (6c) Move up the short wall as for LDJ until the arete of the ramp is reached but follow this all the way to its end. It is a good idea to unclip the last two bolts on the arete each time the next bolt has been reached (to do this for the last bolt on the arete reverse across the ramp once you have clipped the bolt in the wall above).
Chapter 3: Crimpmeister's Wall (7a+) Make taxing moves to step left onto the wall above the ramp and continue in a direct line through the overlap to reach the bulge above. Move slightly left here and mantle onto ledges and a good rest.
Chapter 4: The Denouement (7a+/b) Negotiate some technical and demanding moves off the ledge to eventually reach some flat holds and a break. Climb the bottomless groove above to the next break and then ascend the final wall and left arete to the lower off.
Descend making sure you are tied into an 80m rope or swing over to the lower off on Nudes Of The World.
19 bolts + lower off (21 clips)
Some long draws may come in useful to straighten out the kinks!
Chapter 1: Snafu Bulge (6a+) As for Long Dong Johnson, climb the initial overhanging wall past four bolts to reach the first ledge system.
Chapter 2: Cobbled Arete (6c) Move up the short wall as for LDJ until the arete of the ramp is reached but follow this all the way to its end. It is a good idea to unclip the last two bolts on the arete each time the next bolt has been reached (to do this for the last bolt on the arete reverse across the ramp once you have clipped the bolt in the wall above).
Chapter 3: Crimpmeister's Wall (7a+) Make taxing moves to step left onto the wall above the ramp and continue in a direct line through the overlap to reach the bulge above. Move slightly left here and mantle onto ledges and a good rest.
Chapter 4: The Denouement (7a+/b) Negotiate some technical and demanding moves off the ledge to eventually reach some flat holds and a break. Climb the bottomless groove above to the next break and then ascend the final wall and left arete to the lower off.
Descend making sure you are tied into an 80m rope or swing over to the lower off on Nudes Of The World.
19 bolts + lower off (21 clips)
Tom Rainbow, Steve Pack.
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Route of Interest
This is My Church
Grade: 7b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)