36m.
80m ropes (70m may just get you down on rope stretch but put a knot in the end of your rope and be vigilant). Graded more for the ridiculous positions at the top, perched on the arete 35m above the valley floor, than the need to pull particularly hard.
Climb the steep initial wall direct (extend or unclip first two draws once past them to reduce drag) to ledges. Climb the featured wall above to gain the arete of the ramp and follow this to a bolt (the third bolt above the initial ledge) and rock over. Move left into the hanging groove (you may want to extend the bolt in the groove), step right at its end into another groove and move up this to a ledge.
Climb the vague groove above to its top and step left onto the edge of everything, make a couple of taxing moves through the steepness and into the obvious crack. Use this and the left arete to reach a small ledge and finish with some more arete work to reach the top. Have a Valium, congratulate yourself on keeping it together and descend.
Climb the steep initial wall direct (extend or unclip first two draws once past them to reduce drag) to ledges. Climb the featured wall above to gain the arete of the ramp and follow this to a bolt (the third bolt above the initial ledge) and rock over. Move left into the hanging groove (you may want to extend the bolt in the groove), step right at its end into another groove and move up this to a ledge.
Climb the vague groove above to its top and step left onto the edge of everything, make a couple of taxing moves through the steepness and into the obvious crack. Use this and the left arete to reach a small ledge and finish with some more arete work to reach the top. Have a Valium, congratulate yourself on keeping it together and descend.
Tom Rainbow.
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Route of Interest
The Wave
Grade: 6c S0 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)