UKC

Access Banned

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site

18m. A good route climbing the overhanging headwall above Gold. Starting a metre or so left of Overlord, climb a steep groove line on flaky holds to reach the gangway of Gold. Follow it rightwards for a few moves until you can pull steeply up on good holds onto the overhanging headwall above. Good holds and jams lead to a small ledge at the top of the wall with thank god finishing holds arriving just in time.

G Sutton, M Hellewell 15/Jun/2014.

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Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
True Moments/Freebird

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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