Access Banned
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site
21m.
On the right hand side of the buttress, just left of the arete is a steep hanging slab capped by an impressive diagonal line of flakes forming a roof. Starting from a small pedestal at low water, climb steeply up a line of good flakes until under the roof at the left side of the slab. Good protection and excellent jams can be found under the roof as you traverse upwards and rightwards across the slab in a sensational position to reach good flakes leading onto the arete. Follow the arete to the top on large holds. A superb route.
M Hellewell, G Sutton. 14/Jun/2014.
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Route of Interest
The Concrete Chimney
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)