UKC

Restricted Access

1st May 2025:

There have been no sightings of peregrines or nesting this year so the voluntary ban is not currently in effect.

Voluntary climbing restriction: Birds with special legal protection sometimes nest at this location and climbing is likely to disturb them. This is a criminal offence. In order to protect the rare nesting birds and to avoid breaking the law, a voluntary access restriction has been agreed for both main tiers of the outcrop, ie. all of Upstairs and Downstairs sectors. If the peregrines are nesting, this will last from 1st April until 31st July, by which time fledglings should be able to fend for themselves. If for any reason breeding fails, the voluntary restriction will be lifted.

23m. 9xQD + 2xSLO: Start through the middle of the overhanging roof behind the large tree-stump at the centre of the crag. Take a breather after clipping the first two bolts of 'Long To Belong' before breaking right to head up through a series of mini-cruxes separated by reasonable rests. Finishes left to a lower-off shared with 'Long To Belong'.

Mark Garthwaite.

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Route of Interest
Large Boy Stops for No One

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Loch Buie)

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