UKC

Restricted Access

1st May 2025:

There have been no sightings of peregrines or nesting this year so the voluntary ban is not currently in effect.

Voluntary climbing restriction: Birds with special legal protection sometimes nest at this location and climbing is likely to disturb them. This is a criminal offence. In order to protect the rare nesting birds and to avoid breaking the law, a voluntary access restriction has been agreed for both main tiers of the outcrop, ie. all of Upstairs and Downstairs sectors. If the peregrines are nesting, this will last from 1st April until 31st July, by which time fledglings should be able to fend for themselves. If for any reason breeding fails, the voluntary restriction will be lifted.

22m. 12xQD + 2xSLO: Start as for 'Front Line', clipping its first 5 bolts then break left. (Once you've clipped the 6th bolt, it's useful to un-clip the 5th to avoid rope-drag higher up). Continue through excellent, technical terrain via some perplexing sequences. Pull through the headwall on small pockets and crimps, avoiding holds out right for the top.

Mark Garthwaite.

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