UKC

Rockfax Description
This superb collection of several via ferrata follows a ridge system north from Rifugio Pomedes, over the top of Punta Anna and to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3244m), the third highest peak in the Dolomites.
Approach from Rifugio Pomedes to the VF - From Rifugio Pomedes, follow a well-marked track uphill signed to 'Punta Anna'. Ten minutes of switchbacks brings you to the start of the wire.
VF - The route begins steeply before a traverse out left gives you the first impression of the good exposure to come. Good varied climbing on the wire is interspersed with easier unprotected scrambling up to the summit of Punta Anna. From the summit, the route heads north following the ridge-line, with cairns and arrows to mark the way. Continue past the signed path leading off left down to 'Rifugio Giussani' (possible escape route) continue along the ridge until a second junction is reached. 'Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri' is signed off to the right and this provides the second possible escape route down to Rifugio Ra Valles and the cable car mid station.
To continue, turn left and follow the subsequent ridge-line eventually passing a ladder that provides aid through a difficult section. This leads to an exposed ledge and traverse on the west side of Torrione Gianni. From here there is an optional out and back ascent of Torri Gianni itself which is worth doing if you have the time (and energy). Be aware of potential traffic jams here on a busy day.
To continue the route, follow the traverse around the corner, with some fantastic exposure, until a further ledge allows you to down climb the col of the Bus de Tofana. There is another possible escape route here by passing through the giant rock window in a westerly direction, following a steep scree slope to Rifugio Giussani. It is worth descending slightly from the Bus de Tofana to view the rock window, a descent through which is a popular ski touring itinerary in the winter.
To continue, cross over to the opposite side (northwest) of the Bus de Tofana and follow the path through a not-so-scenic series of avalanche barriers (there are plans to divert the path around these in the future). Further climbing, passing several ladders and exposed ledges, leads to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3244m).
It is common to end the route here using the descent options described opposite, however, for those masochists who want more, descend 50m or so towards and the cable car station and follow as for Lamon/Formenton - see opposite.
Descent - There are numerous escape options as detailed in the route description, but most people end the route at either the summit of Tofana di Mezzo or from Rifugio Ra Valles.
From the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (see overview on page 368) - To return to Rifugio Dibona, retrace your steps back to the Bus de Tofana. Pass through the rock window heading west down steep scree towards Rifugio Giussani. Join path 403 below the rifugio near the now abandoned Rifugio Cantore and all the way back to the well-signed 'Rifugio Dibona'.
To return to Rifugio Pietofana, descend north from the summit to the Freccia nel Cielo top cable car station. Descend this to Rifugio Col Drusciè (the second cable car stop). From here a large track leads southwest back to Rifugio Pietofana in around 10 minutes.
From Rifugio Ra Valles - To return to Rifugio Dibona take path 407 uphill to the southwest. The ascent feels very tiring at this point despite there only being just over 100m of height gain. Before the top of the chairlift, follow the path as it branches off left to descend the well-marked Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri protected path. This leads down to Rifugio Pomedes and path 421 which you descend to Rifugio Dibona and a well-earned rest.
To return to Rifugio Pietofana take the cable car down to Col Drusciè (the first cable car stop). From here a large track leads southwest back to Rifugio Pietofana in around 10 minutes © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route which can be climbed entirely on the rock. Can be done on its own or combined with VF Gianni Aglio to reach the summit of Tofana di Mezzo - a total ascent of 1200m and 800m of VF.

Ticklists

Big Routes , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites 2019

Feedback

User Date Notes
ptp 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Climbed today. Wire broken on exposed arête about quarter of the way up leaving c 3m to free climb with no wire protection, recommend you have some slings or rope and a confident lead as a fall would be terminal. It’s been reported to local guides, so likely to be fixed soon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. Climbed today. Wire broken on exposed arête about quarter of the way up leaving c 3m to free climb with no wire protection, recommend you have some slings or rope and a confident lead as a fall would be terminal. It’s been reported to local guides, so likely to be fixed soon.
lazza 17 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing VF.! Great exposure and magnificent views all the way. Didn’t like the scree slope back down through the rock window though. A great and memorable day out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing VF.! Great exposure and magnificent views all the way. Didn’t like the scree slope back down through the rock window though. A great and memorable day out.

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Voting
High VF5D
Mid VF5D
Low VF5D
High VF5C
Mid VF5C
Low VF5C
High VF5B
Mid VF5B
Low VF5B
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tomaselli (VF)

Grade: VF5C ***
(Punta di Mezzo di Fanes)

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