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Rockfax Description
This superb collection of several via ferrata follows a ridge system north from Rifugio Pomedes, over the top of Punta Anna and to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3244m), the third highest peak in the Dolomites.
Approach from Rifugio Pomedes to the VF - From Rifugio Pomedes, follow a well-marked track uphill signed to 'Punta Anna'. Ten minutes of switchbacks brings you to the start of the wire.
VF - The route begins steeply before a traverse out left gives you the first impression of the good exposure to come. Good varied climbing on the wire is interspersed with easier unprotected scrambling up to the summit of Punta Anna. From the summit, the route heads north following the ridge-line, with cairns and arrows to mark the way. Continue past the signed path leading off left down to 'Rifugio Giussani' (possible escape route) continue along the ridge until a second junction is reached. 'Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri' is signed off to the right and this provides the second possible escape route down to Rifugio Ra Valles and the cable car mid station.
To continue, turn left and follow the subsequent ridge-line eventually passing a ladder that provides aid through a difficult section. This leads to an exposed ledge and traverse on the west side of Torrione Gianni. From here there is an optional out and back ascent of Torri Gianni itself which is worth doing if you have the time (and energy). Be aware of potential traffic jams here on a busy day.
To continue the route, follow the traverse around the corner, with some fantastic exposure, until a further ledge allows you to down climb the col of the Bus de Tofana. There is another possible escape route here by passing through the giant rock window in a westerly direction, following a steep scree slope to Rifugio Giussani. It is worth descending slightly from the Bus de Tofana to view the rock window, a descent through which is a popular ski touring itinerary in the winter.
To continue, cross over to the opposite side (northwest) of the Bus de Tofana and follow the path through a not-so-scenic series of avalanche barriers (there are plans to divert the path around these in the future). Further climbing, passing several ladders and exposed ledges, leads to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3244m).
It is common to end the route here using the descent options described opposite, however, for those masochists who want more, descend 50m or so towards and the cable car station and follow as for Lamon/Formenton - see opposite.
Descent - There are numerous escape options as detailed in the route description, but most people end the route at either the summit of Tofana di Mezzo or from Rifugio Ra Valles.
From the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (see overview on page 368) - To return to Rifugio Dibona, retrace your steps back to the Bus de Tofana. Pass through the rock window heading west down steep scree towards Rifugio Giussani. Join path 403 below the rifugio near the now abandoned Rifugio Cantore and all the way back to the well-signed 'Rifugio Dibona'.
To return to Rifugio Pietofana, descend north from the summit to the Freccia nel Cielo top cable car station. Descend this to Rifugio Col Drusciè (the second cable car stop). From here a large track leads southwest back to Rifugio Pietofana in around 10 minutes.
From Rifugio Ra Valles - To return to Rifugio Dibona take path 407 uphill to the southwest. The ascent feels very tiring at this point despite there only being just over 100m of height gain. Before the top of the chairlift, follow the path as it branches off left to descend the well-marked Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri protected path. This leads down to Rifugio Pomedes and path 421 which you descend to Rifugio Dibona and a well-earned rest.
To return to Rifugio Pietofana take the cable car down to Col Drusciè (the first cable car stop). From here a large track leads southwest back to Rifugio Pietofana in around 10 minutes © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route which can be climbed entirely on the rock. Can be done on its own or combined with VF Gianni Aglio to reach the summit of Tofana di Mezzo - a total ascent of 1200m and 800m of VF.

Ticklists

Big Routes, Dolomites Trip, Dolomites 2019

Feedback

User Date Notes
lazza 17 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing VF.! Great exposure and magnificent views all the way. Didn’t like the scree slope back down through the rock window though. A great and memorable day out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing VF.! Great exposure and magnificent views all the way. Didn’t like the scree slope back down through the rock window though. A great and memorable day out.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tree-normas 26 Sep, 2019 - Epic route and big exposure. Didn’t make the summit as there was more snow than planned. Retreated through the window to return to Refugio Dibona. Will be returning to get the summit
Epic route and big exposure. Didn’t make the summit as there was more snow than planned. Retreated through the window to return to Refugio Dibona. Will be returning to get the summit
Hidden 24 Sep, 2019 -
Hidden 24 Sep, 2019 -
David Clover 19 Sep, 2019 -
montymoo u 16 Sep, 2019 Solo Horrendous scree descent from the window.
Horrendous scree descent from the window.
lazza 16 Sep, 2019 Lead
with chris, montymoo
with chris, montymoo
andybenham 16 Sep, 2019 Solo O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
Gareth u 16 Sep, 2019 Solo O/S From Dibona Refugio to summit. Snow from previous week’s storm still in places which added to the excitement but was not deep. Great day out.
From Dibona Refugio to summit. Snow from previous week’s storm still in places which added to the excitement but was not deep. Great day out.
mattjoynson 30 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
Ciaranunderscoretolan 30 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
crag_hopper_Jay 29 Aug, 2019 -
Hidden 20 Aug, 2019 -
stev1e.wilso 14 Aug, 2019 Solo O/S
ok2019 10 Aug, 2019 - Took about 4h to finish the via ferrata, and another roughly 30 mins to reach Tofana Mezzo summit. There was a free shuttle bus running from the bottom cable car station, which mean we got from summit to car without having to walk more than about 50m!
with Pam
Took about 4h to finish the via ferrata, and another roughly 30 mins to reach Tofana Mezzo summit. There was a free shuttle bus running from the bottom cable car station, which mean we got from summit to car without having to walk more than about 50m!
with Pam
Hidden 10 Aug, 2019 Solo O/S
danpti20 1 Aug, 2019 Lead G/U
lewis.m 24 Jul, 2019 - Started very late due to weissbiers the night before. Didn't get on route until 1pm. Charged up, excellent climbing. Loved the exposure before the bus de tofana. Storm started as we approached the bus so we bailed down the stone chute. Back at the car by quarter to 6.
with Smeato
Started very late due to weissbiers the night before. Didn't get on route until 1pm. Charged up, excellent climbing. Loved the exposure before the bus de tofana. Storm started as we approached the bus so we bailed down the stone chute. Back at the car by quarter to 6.
with Smeato
Smeato 24 Jul, 2019 -
with lewis.m
with lewis.m
mikecollins 24 Jul, 2019 Lead rpt
with Lauradavies23, Thorclimbs, Joey Jo
with Lauradavies23, Thorclimbs, Joey Jo
Thorclimbs 24 Jul, 2019 2nd
Lauradavies23 24 Jul, 2019 2nd
calvin.giles 22 Jul, 2019 TR dog Clean the first half, pulled the cable for the second half.
with Guillermo Christen, Eric Soenens
Clean the first half, pulled the cable for the second half.
with Guillermo Christen, Eric Soenens
Akinori 17 Jul, 2019 - ピークのゴンドラが動いていない為途中で降りた
ピークのゴンドラが動いていない為途中で降りた
Hidden 16 Jul, 2019 -
alastairbegley 16 Jul, 2019 Solo Great route. Excellent climbing with no need to use the cable. http://mp-m.uk/1pGlP
Great route. Excellent climbing with no need to use the cable. http://mp-m.uk/1pGlP
gingerbex u 16 Jul, 2019 Solo O/S Amazing day out. Punta Anna then Gianni Aglio to summit. Lamon /Formenton to summit of Di Dentro as no lifts til 22/7. Some small snow patches but all passable or avoidable. Return trip to Ref. Dibona including beer stout at Pomedes 12 hours. PA def the highlight. Wouldn’t re do Formenton if lift was running.
Amazing day out. Punta Anna then Gianni Aglio to summit. Lamon /Formenton to summit of Di Dentro as no lifts til 22/7. Some small snow patches but all passable or avoidable. Return trip to Ref. Dibona including beer stout at Pomedes 12 hours. PA def the highlight. Wouldn’t re do Formenton if lift was running.
ahbell 5 Jul, 2019 -
with Tom Arban, Aaron Budd
with Tom Arban, Aaron Budd
Handsforfeet 1 Jul, 2019 Solo Got to just under Bus De Tofana. Decided to retreat due to lightening, hail and deteriorating visibility. We also knew that Tofano Di Mezzo was in winter condition and we didn't have crampons. We also had been told the lift down from the top wasn't in operation which would have put us on the clock
Got to just under Bus De Tofana. Decided to retreat due to lightening, hail and deteriorating visibility. We also knew that Tofano Di Mezzo was in winter condition and we didn't have crampons. We also had been told the lift down from the top wasn't in operation which would have put us on the clock
Hidden 1 Jul, 2019 Solo
Glyn Davidson 4 Nov, 2018 Solo O/S Almost reached the top but had to retreat. In full winter conditions.
Almost reached the top but had to retreat. In full winter conditions.
Hidden 17 Oct, 2018 -
Adam.Watson 29 Sep, 2018 Solo
ChrisH89 29 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S Really good fun, cool positions and exposure but never hard. Long for a rest day with continuation to summit!
Really good fun, cool positions and exposure but never hard. Long for a rest day with continuation to summit!
Hidden 21 Sep, 2018 -
morganj 15 Sep, 2018 -
jonathan_doyle 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 15 Sep, 2018 -
ClimbingLondoner 14 Sep, 2018 -
with Alison Bryne
with Alison Bryne
Ross Philpot 11 Sep, 2018 -
PatrickBoothroyd 8 Sep, 2018 -
with NigelBoothroyd
with NigelBoothroyd
Emhewson 6 Sep, 2018 -
jussiupn 5 Sep, 2018 - Only the first part to top of Punta Anna. Climbing slowly and enjoying the views. The exit with VF Astaldi. Must continue from top for a while until clearly marked to go left. We tried several paths too early to left, no success, need to follow the normal route. Long way down with no actual path in "stone fall". We were not experienced to go down, so the whole going down route took 3,5 hours. Maybe easier to climb to Ra Valles and lift down
with Petri Laurikka
Only the first part to top of Punta Anna. Climbing slowly and enjoying the views. The exit with VF Astaldi. Must continue from top for a while until clearly marked to go left. We tried several paths too early to left, no success, need to follow the normal route. Long way down with no actual path in "stone fall". We were not experienced to go down, so the whole going down route took 3,5 hours. Maybe easier to climb to Ra Valles and lift down
with Petri Laurikka
Hidden 4 Sep, 2018 Solo rpt
michaelped 4 Sep, 2018 -
with devo
with devo
Daniela Balslev 3 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S first part in sunshine, second part in thick cloud and snowfall (!) Made it a very interesting mountaineering experience.
first part in sunshine, second part in thick cloud and snowfall (!) Made it a very interesting mountaineering experience.
Chris Manasseh 3 Sep, 2018 - Absolutely magnificent. All free apart from one move which needed a pin foothold. Superb steep climbing in sensational situations. Amazing views in the morning sun. Completed the full circuit of Tofanas di Mezzo and Dentro via VFs Gianni Aglio and Lamon/Formenton.
Absolutely magnificent. All free apart from one move which needed a pin foothold. Superb steep climbing in sensational situations. Amazing views in the morning sun. Completed the full circuit of Tofanas di Mezzo and Dentro via VFs Gianni Aglio and Lamon/Formenton.
Alaister ? Sep, 2018 -
JezzaCat 18 Aug, 2018 -
ladislav 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S We somehow managed to get off-route! Stupid unmarked junctions.
with Andy
We somehow managed to get off-route! Stupid unmarked junctions.
with Andy
loungerr 15 Aug, 2018 - Good ferrata with magnificent views on a sunny day, almost did not use the cable for climbing. Solid holds everywhere.
Good ferrata with magnificent views on a sunny day, almost did not use the cable for climbing. Solid holds everywhere.
Hidden 3 Aug, 2018 -
disturbed_one51 3 Aug, 2018 Lead Lovely day out, very busy. Linked it with the Formenton VF to descend.
Lovely day out, very busy. Linked it with the Formenton VF to descend.
mikecollins 31 Jul, 2018 - With Joey & Joe
With Joey & Joe
Lauradavies23 31 Jul, 2018 -
A Jackson 24 Jul, 2018 -
with Neil Murphy
with Neil Murphy
hazeysunshine 22 Jul, 2018 -
with Jo A, Ali, Jan R
with Jo A, Ali, Jan R
alex toomey 18 Jul, 2018 -
with anna
with anna
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 Solo
fweatherall1 5 Sep, 2017 -
James corfe 5 Sep, 2017 Lead
Hidden 31 Aug, 2017 -
John Kelly 12 Aug, 2017 - Chair lift to the summit Tofana, including ascent of Torri Gianni , air noticeably thin at top, not too technical but quite a good step out, cable car descent. 4 hrs chair to car.
Chair lift to the summit Tofana, including ascent of Torri Gianni , air noticeably thin at top, not too technical but quite a good step out, cable car descent. 4 hrs chair to car.
jussiupn 31 Jul, 2017 - Did only the first portion of VF. Started quite late, around 11:00. Took chair lift close to start. Obvious path up and right takes you to start in 20 minutes. We climbed ok to summit of Punta Anna, but then it was suprise to go still upwards to exit to big condola lift. Last lift down is 17:00. We were there bit more than hour before that. Long route for me. The total VF Punta Anna is 1200m ascend, this is only one third of that.
with Paavo Kuosmanen
Did only the first portion of VF. Started quite late, around 11:00. Took chair lift close to start. Obvious path up and right takes you to start in 20 minutes. We climbed ok to summit of Punta Anna, but then it was suprise to go still upwards to exit to big condola lift. Last lift down is 17:00. We were there bit more than hour before that. Long route for me. The total VF Punta Anna is 1200m ascend, this is only one third of that.
with Paavo Kuosmanen
MoWalker3 21 Jul, 2017 -
Andyjharper 17 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Iza
with Iza
Hidden ? Jul, 2017 -
Hidden ? Jul, 2017 -
buffclimbymatthew 19 Jun, 2017 -
Hidden 24 Sep, 2016 -
Giles Eperon 24 Sep, 2016 - Didn't go all the way to the summit of the Tofana due to snow concerns.
Didn't go all the way to the summit of the Tofana due to snow concerns.
Hidden 24 Sep, 2016 -
Alex Eperon 24 Sep, 2016 -
Tim Harper 9 Sep, 2016 Solo
JulianD 7 Sep, 2016 Solo
with Paul B, David H
with Paul B, David H
RM199 6 Sep, 2016 -
richmitson 6 Sep, 2016 -
yelotango 3 Sep, 2016 Solo Stunning
Stunning
gateaublaster 27 Aug, 2016 Solo Loved it
Loved it
tobyk 11 Aug, 2016 -
with jess, simon, Emma Knights
with jess, simon, Emma Knights
evhall u 19 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S very good fun - few traffic jams and some amazing exposure towards the end
with Tim Bray
very good fun - few traffic jams and some amazing exposure towards the end
with Tim Bray
Hidden 14 Jul, 2016 -
David Clover ? Jun, 2016 Solo
miriamclaire ? Jun, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
timmyhobby 9 Sep, 2015 - Did as a loop of the 3 tofana peaks in a day, around 2500m of acsent and decent
Did as a loop of the 3 tofana peaks in a day, around 2500m of acsent and decent
whiteexplorer 8 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S
Ed Babs 8 Sep, 2015 - Superb day out.
with David, IainAM
Superb day out.
with David, IainAM
Dilwat 8 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
SurferStan 8 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2015 -
Steve Shorrock 1 Sep, 2015 -
with katiet
with katiet
katiet u 31 Aug, 2015 -
andyclimber 28 Aug, 2015 -
IJHunt 28 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
with Fiona
with Fiona
bummingham 12 Aug, 2015 Solo Good. Long.
Good. Long.
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 Solo
TomGB 7 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
with Pete Nielsen, Lampy, Stewart Moody
with Pete Nielsen, Lampy, Stewart Moody
CMacD 27 Jul, 2015 - Punta Anna and the follow on Gianni Aglio to the summit of Tofana Di Mezzo. From the Rifugio Dibona early in the morning to avoid the chair lift crowds, retuned to the Dibona by down climbing to Bus de Tofana then through the window. First ever via ferrata. Punta Anna was good but the Gianni Aglio was absolutely stunning, one of the best days out in the mountains ever.
with Doug Bloor
Punta Anna and the follow on Gianni Aglio to the summit of Tofana Di Mezzo. From the Rifugio Dibona early in the morning to avoid the chair lift crowds, retuned to the Dibona by down climbing to Bus de Tofana then through the window. First ever via ferrata. Punta Anna was good but the Gianni Aglio was absolutely stunning, one of the best days out in the mountains ever.
with Doug Bloor
philmitch 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S a great day out. The scramble to the top once the wire finished felt exposed.
a great day out. The scramble to the top once the wire finished felt exposed.
jh1990 5 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
iainsanderson 5 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with jh1990
with jh1990
duncana u 3 Jul, 2015 Solo A great long via ferrata day, this and Gianni Aglio. Got lucky to start as the chairlift up to Rif Pomedes didn't open did the day after (first Saturday in July), but we got a free ride with the technicians who were going up. Did a new warm-up via ferrata near the lift station, then got on Punta Anna. All fairly straightforward, we were going well, so continued up to Tofana de Mezzo.
with Pippa Archer
A great long via ferrata day, this and Gianni Aglio. Got lucky to start as the chairlift up to Rif Pomedes didn't open did the day after (first Saturday in July), but we got a free ride with the technicians who were going up. Did a new warm-up via ferrata near the lift station, then got on Punta Anna. All fairly straightforward, we were going well, so continued up to Tofana de Mezzo.
with Pippa Archer
Gabe Oliver u 11 Sep, 2014 -
colinthrelfall 2 Sep, 2014 -
with Gordon, Neal, Rope
with Gordon, Neal, Rope
Emma Charters 1 Aug, 2014 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 -
ANC 3 Sep, 2013 -
with Louise Humphreys
with Louise Humphreys
louise123 3 Sep, 2013 -
with ANC
with ANC
Marq 30 Aug, 2013 Solo O/S
with James Pearson, katherinesydney
with James Pearson, katherinesydney
katherinesydney 30 Aug, 2013 Solo Not nearly as hard as the book says; a fine day out. 4.5 hours from the chair lift to the summit. A bit of snow and loads of clouds, which broke occasionally for the views.
with james pearson, Marq
Not nearly as hard as the book says; a fine day out. 4.5 hours from the chair lift to the summit. A bit of snow and loads of clouds, which broke occasionally for the views.
with james pearson, Marq
Hidden 12 Aug, 2013 -
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 -
Fiona Reid 9 Jul, 2013 - Very nice, nothing too hard. Lots of snow on the descent.
Very nice, nothing too hard. Lots of snow on the descent.
Hidden 18 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2012 -
tomhull 3 Jul, 2012 -
with matt harris
with matt harris
Hidden 3 Jul, 2012 -
noteviljoe 26 Jun, 2012 - Amazing end to excellent holiday, two of our party of 5 bailed off to do an easier route. We couldn't finish the end due to too much snow. Would love to return now I have more mountain confidence.
Amazing end to excellent holiday, two of our party of 5 bailed off to do an easier route. We couldn't finish the end due to too much snow. Would love to return now I have more mountain confidence.
Hidden 10 Jun, 2012 -
Chuck 16 Sep, 2011 -
with Carrie Craig
with Carrie Craig
Jörmungandr 8 Sep, 2011 - Grade 5C
with Justin Thomas, Dave Spencer
Grade 5C
with Justin Thomas, Dave Spencer
Hidden 27 Jul, 2011 -
jlismore 17 Aug, 2010 Solo
stevelismore 17 Aug, 2010 Solo
jonnie3430 27 Jun, 2010 -
SianR 27 Jun, 2010 - Jonnie, Kat, Laura & Euan
Jonnie, Kat, Laura & Euan
Hidden 9 Sep, 2009 -
Hidden 15 Jul, 2009 -
PaulHermes 19 Sep, 2008 Solo
Becky E 2 Sep, 2007 - Strenuous start, but an enjoyable route.
with various
Strenuous start, but an enjoyable route.
with various
riddle ??, 2007 -
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
Andy Clarke u 7 Aug, 2006 - Excellent. Sustained interest throughout, and straight off the cable car. Continued up Gianni Aglio.
with MikeW, James
Excellent. Sustained interest throughout, and straight off the cable car. Continued up Gianni Aglio.
with MikeW, James
Hidden ? Aug, 2006 Lead
runwildjohn 19 Jul, 2006 -
Hidden ? Jul, 2006 -
ElShalimo ??, 2006 -
IggyLiz u ? Sep, 2004 -
Chris the Tall 30 Aug, 2004 -
with IggyLiz
with IggyLiz
jamie ward 17 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Andrew Parish
with Andrew Parish
Chris the Tall 6 Sep, 2002 - An awesome day in which we did the whole traverse
with Paul
An awesome day in which we did the whole traverse
with Paul
AG ??, 2001 -
abbeywall 1 Sep, 1999 -
with K
with K
Steve J P ? Jul, 1997 -
with JL
with JL
Hidden ? Aug, 1986 -
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Voting
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Mid VF5C
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High VF5B
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tomaselli (VF)

Grade: VF5C ***
(Punta di Mezzo di Fanes)