UKC

Restricted Access

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The climbs between Hororscope and Galactic Coordinator inlusive can only be reached by abseil during 1st March to 1st August (don't scramble in from the west as this approach encroaches on the restriction to the west).There is also a nesting season restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) covering Star Control to Rabbit Ripper inlcuding all 3 girdle traverses. This includes Deep Throat. 

 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route which follows the groove which runs up the left-hand side of the main overhangs and then blasts out to an exposed position on the front edge of the buttress. Start below the long tapering groove.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb a steep wall into the main groove and follow this to a large ledge to the left of the main roofs.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb diagonally right across the wall, past a flake, to a niche. Move right again to the arete then pull up into a larger niche and finish up a steep crack. © Rockfax

FA. S.Lewis, C.Heard 17/Jun/1979.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Pembroke , UK Holiday Plans , Pembroke ticket , Consolidation VS-HVS , Easy Pemb

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of my all time favourite solos..tricky off-putting bulge a short way up the first pitch and utterly spectacular positions on the top pitch. Remember it's not bird banned as long as you abseil in.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of my all time favourite solos..tricky off-putting bulge a short way up the first pitch and utterly spectacular positions on the top pitch. Remember it's not bird banned as long as you abseil in.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Triple Overhang Buttress

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Spacewalk

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)

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