UKC

Restricted Access

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The climbs between Hororscope and Galactic Coordinator inlusive can only be reached by abseil during 1st March to 1st August (don't scramble in from the west as this approach encroaches on the restriction to the west).There is also a nesting season restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) covering Star Control to Rabbit Ripper inlcuding all 3 girdle traverses. This includes Deep Throat. 

 

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This breath-taking traverse follows the lower line below the main roof. The climbing is never very difficult and the positions are amazing. Start from the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Galactic Co-ordinator, reached by either doing this pitch or by scrambling easily down from the top.
1) 4c, 15m. Swing around the arete onto the main face and follow the break below the roof to a wild stance on an arete.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue traversing along the break, past the crack of Deep Throat, to a large ledge. Scramble off easily. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 17/Jun/1979.

Ticklists

HVS Adventures , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Extreme Girdle , UK Holiday Plans , Big Routes 2020 , 33 By 33 , Pembs '21 , Pembroke ticket , HS-HVS adventures , Easy Pemb , Pembs Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Morgan Woods 5 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very atmospheric.....did it bystarting on the first pitch of GC which has a hard start on very funky sharp black rock. the traverse itself can be a bit daunting because it's a lot of work on the arms. Best to belay halfway at a fixed friend (well i hope it's fixed) then continue underneath a dirty wet corner for about 5-10m....belay low down and walk off rather than from the very top to avoid drag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very atmospheric.....did it bystarting on the first pitch of GC which has a hard start on very funky sharp black rock. the traverse itself can be a bit daunting because it's a lot of work on the arms. Best to belay halfway at a fixed friend (well i hope it's fixed) then continue underneath a dirty wet corner for about 5-10m....belay low down and walk off rather than from the very top to avoid drag.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Night Riders

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Strata Walls)

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