Rockfax Description
This breath-taking traverse follows the lower line below the main roof. The climbing is never very difficult and the positions are amazing. Start from the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Galactic Co-ordinator, reached by either doing this pitch or by scrambling easily down from the top.
1) 4c, 15m. Swing around the arete onto the main face and follow the break below the roof to a wild stance on an arete.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue traversing along the break, past the crack of Deep Throat, to a large ledge. Scramble off easily. © Rockfax
FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 17/Jun/1979.
Ticklists
HVS Adventures , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Extreme Girdle , UK Holiday Plans , Big Routes 2020 , 32 By 32 , Pembs '21 , Pembroke ticket
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Morgan Woods | 5 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: very atmospheric.....did it bystarting on the first pitch of GC which has a hard start on very funky sharp black rock. the traverse itself can be a bit daunting because it's a lot of work on the arms. Best to belay halfway at a fixed friend (well i hope it's fixed) then continue underneath a dirty wet corner for about 5-10m....belay low down and walk off rather than from the very top to avoid drag. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: very atmospheric.....did it bystarting on the first pitch of GC which has a hard start on very funky sharp black rock. the traverse itself can be a bit daunting because it's a lot of work on the arms. Best to belay halfway at a fixed friend (well i hope it's fixed) then continue underneath a dirty wet corner for about 5-10m....belay low down and walk off rather than from the very top to avoid drag. |
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Bohemian Bubblebath
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)