An adventurous mountain route high on the side wall of South Gully that is no pushover. The route is gained by scrambling up South Gully to reach a large grassy ledge to the left of a rock rib.
1) 4c, 30m. From the ledge, step down and follow the right-most groove to reach a steep narrow slab (possible belay). Climb the slab to a hard move to reach the right-hand edge. Belay with care.
2) 5a, 18m. From the right-hand block, boldly gain the nose on the left. Continue left to gain Teufel's Crack. Follow this to a belay on a grassy rake.
3) 15m. Easily up the rake to belay behind the large block.
4) 4b, 38m. Climb a vague groove right of the block. Move left to a crack and follow this to a ledge. Gain a steep crack on the right to reach the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Scramble up South Gully until you reach the obvious arete and steep slab of Munich Climb on the LHS, just belwo the Pinnacle in the centre of the gully.
Pitch 1 - follow the steep slab/arete. Poor but sufficient gear. Hard move leftwards at the top to reach the belay.
Pitch 2 - climb the steep slab with a small "ledge" half way. Adequate but spaced gear. Can be climbed on the slab, on the arete, or round the front side overlooking South Gully depending on your height and preference. Cramped belay stance in some blocks with in-situ ab sling for the faint of heart.
Pitch 3 - make a hard and committing move leftwards above the belay stance to gain the arete. Great exposure, balancy but good protection. Traverse leftwards several metres with care to Teufels crack and climb it (fist jamming) to the stance. Careful ropework required to protect a nervous second on this pitch.
Pitch 4 - amble up the grassy rake a bit to a groove line in the wall. Climb this.
Pitch 5 - Head for the top up the wall above, slightly dirty in parts.
Pitch 5 -
North Wales Rock Graded List, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
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