Rockfax Description
The first route has a wandering line but with that comes the sense of a mountain journey. Start just left of the foot of the main central slab.
1) 25m. Go up easy terrain to reach a scoop just to the left of the main rib. Move right onto the rib and climb it to a belay on the large ledge.
2) 10m. The left-hand of the two cracks gradually widens and leads to a sentry box at a junction with Direct Route.
3) 15m. Follow a flake left to the arete and drop down the far side. Move up below the arete into a bay/chimney.
4) 12m. Continue through the cave to an easy slab. A harder alternative is to back-and-foot up the chimney to rejoin Direct Route and belay in the open bay above.
5) 10m. The chimney on the right leads easily to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Milestone Butress
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Grade: D ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)