Rockfax Description
One of Wales' most classic routes. It is a wonderful, direct voyage up the ridge. Also known as First Pinnacle Rib. The Yellow Slab on P4 has a short 4b technical crux, but it can be avoided.
1) 10m. Start 10m right of South Gully ('FPR' is scratched on the rock) where a square block leans against the crag. Climb a slab underneath steep rock and exit right. Climb a groove on the right to belay on the ridge.
2) 40m. Follow the easy ridge on the left direct.
3) 40m. Continue up the ridge to a belay behind the pinnacle.
4) 4b, 15m. The infamous Yellow Slab! Climb the polished slab to a groove on the right. Follow this to a stance. You can avoid this pitch on the right.
5) 35m. Follow the curving rib to easier ground and a belay beneath the final wall.
6) 20m. Walk rightwards for 20m and belay.
7) 25m. Head up easy ground to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Buttress Norh of First Pinnacle Rib, slab out left for 20 feet. Follow Rib easily. Join Second Pinnacle Rib below Yellow Slab (4b).
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , CUMC Ticklist , Classic Rock , Welcome to CUMC , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Soggy Diffs , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , No you're a punter , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Top 20 UK Diffs? , Llidberis
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| maxtlor | 22 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: Lots of loose rock | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose rock |
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| kbow265 | 25 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Roughly. Humid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Roughly. Humid. |
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| odari | 25 May, 2015 |
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βeta: To make sure the stuck hex on Thomson chimney was still good, I took a fall on it. It's still excellent. (nice catch Tom). That last pitch is not easy, especially when wet. The hand/fist crack above the hex takes a n.3 BD. The rest, including yellow slab, are ok even in damp. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: To make sure the stuck hex on Thomson chimney was still good, I took a fall on it. It's still excellent. (nice catch Tom). That last pitch is not easy, especially when wet. The hand/fist crack above the hex takes a n.3 BD. The rest, including yellow slab, are ok even in damp. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Tryfan
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Cneifion Arete
Grade: D ***
(Cwm Cneifion)