Rockfax Description
One of Wales' most classic routes. It is a wonderful, direct voyage up the ridge. Also known as First Pinnacle Rib. The Yellow Slab on P4 has a short 4b technical crux, but it can be avoided.
1) 10m. Start 10m right of South Gully ('FPR' is scratched on the rock) where a square block leans against the crag. Climb a slab underneath steep rock and exit right. Climb a groove on the right to belay on the ridge.
2) 40m. Follow the easy ridge on the left direct.
3) 40m. Continue up the ridge to a belay behind the pinnacle.
4) 4b, 15m. The infamous Yellow Slab! Climb the polished slab to a groove on the right. Follow this to a stance. You can avoid this pitch on the right.
5) 35m. Follow the curving rib to easier ground and a belay beneath the final wall.
6) 20m. Walk rightwards for 20m and belay.
7) 25m. Head up easy ground to the summit. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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John Higgs | 14 Jun |
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βeta: The 2010 Ogwen guide shows this (wrongly?) as Pinnacle Rib Route | βeta? | |
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βeta: The 2010 Ogwen guide shows this (wrongly?) as Pinnacle Rib Route |
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maxtlor | 22 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: Lots of loose rock | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose rock |
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kbow265 | 25 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Roughly. Humid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Roughly. Humid. |
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odari | 25 May, 2015 |
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βeta: To make sure the stuck hex on Thomson chimney was still good, I took a fall on it. It's still excellent. (nice catch Tom). That last pitch is not easy, especially when wet. The hand/fist crack above the hex takes a n.3 BD. The rest, including yellow slab, are ok even in damp. | ||
Show beta
βeta: To make sure the stuck hex on Thomson chimney was still good, I took a fall on it. It's still excellent. (nice catch Tom). That last pitch is not easy, especially when wet. The hand/fist crack above the hex takes a n.3 BD. The rest, including yellow slab, are ok even in damp. |
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Grade: D ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)