One of Wales' most classic routes. Also known as First Pinnacle Rib. A wonderful, direct voyage up the ridge. The Yellow Slab on P4 has a short 4b technical crux, but it can be skirted round to the right.
1) 10m. Start 10m right of South Gully ("FPR" is scratched on the rock) where a square block leans against the crag. Climb a slab underneath steep rock, exit right. Climb a groove on the right to belay on the ridge.
2) 40m. Follow the easy ridge on the left direct.
3) 40m. Continue up the ridge to the pinnacle. Belay behind the pinnacle.
4) 4b, 15m. The infamous Yellow Slab! Climb the polished slab to a groove on the right. Follow this to a stance. You can avoid this pitch on the right if needed.
5) to 7) Finish as for Pinnacle Rib Route in three pitches. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Buttress Norh of First Pinnacle Rib, slab out left for 20 feet. Follow Rib easily. Join Second Pinnacle Rib below Yellow Slab (4b).
North Wales Rock Graded List, CUMC Ticklist, Classic Rock, Welcome to CUMC, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Soggy Diffs, Mountain Rock, Easy peasy Northy Weesy
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