Another classic outing up the long ridge 40m right of South Gully. Often called Second Pinnacle Rib ("FPR" is scratched on the rock here too!).
1) 25m. Climb a groove just right of the rib that marks the right-hand side of the large grassy bay to belay on blocks.
2) 30m. Climb the steep rib above.
3) 30m. Climb rock steps to a large stance.
4) 12m. Continue up the rounded arete above, then traverse left to a stance above the Yellow Slab on the previous route.
5) 35m. Follow the curving rib to easier ground and a belay beneath the final wall.
6) 20m. Walk rightwards for 20m and belay,
7) 25m Either climb straight up Thompson's Chimney (S) a rite of passage for many traditional climbers, or head right and take an alternative route onto easier ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Superb long route. Confusingly this also has 'FPR' scratched at the base of the climb! The leftwards traverse of pitch #4 joins First Pinnacle Rib on a ledge just above the Yellow Slab, and is the only slightly tricky route-finding on the climb.
J.Thompson, H.Hughes 1894.
North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Big Routes, The Long Routes, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, York University Students path to greatness, Easy peasy Northy Weesy, The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round, Hard Rock & Other Classics, Wales with M, Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves
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