Rockfax Description
Just left of the descent gully lies this interesting and varied route. Another good one for those with limited multi-pitch experience or those who enjoy comfortable belay ledges.
1) 28m. Climb the slab left of the rib on large holds to reach a small ledge. Climb up through a crack to get stood on the towering block on the left, the Pulpit and belay.
2) 28m. Move left onto the slab with hands in a break. Make a tricky step up to gain the slab above and traverse up and left to a steep groove. A puzzling move gains the slot/slab which is followed to a good belay on a flatter area of rock.
3) 12m. Scramble rightwards. You can descend by abseiling from a massive spike into the gully, or by descending a groove by the spike and then scrambling right along a blocky ledge into the gully. If you wish to keep climbing then continue along the ledge to beneath the gaping chimney and belay as for Ivy Chimney.
4) 15m. A steep few moves guard the entrance to the chimney. Walk back and exit right up a steep section and through a hole. Belay on a perched block.
5) 10m. Climb up the exposed rib on the right to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A 5 pitch, simple climb with a nice chimney on the 4th pitch.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , Milestone Butress , Milestone Butress , Big Ogwen Day Out , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , No you're a punter , Llidberis
User | Date | Notes | ||
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karelvangoor1 | 20 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Loose big flake near top of chimney | ||
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βeta: Loose big flake near top of chimney |
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Rosalind Chaston | 14 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Good for novices - many points to belay at. | ||
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βeta: Good for novices - many points to belay at. |
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Francis Hardy | 27 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Loose flake at the top of the chimney, could be serious if dislodged and second is belaying from the base of the chimney. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose flake at the top of the chimney, could be serious if dislodged and second is belaying from the base of the chimney. |
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skinne | 22 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Plenty of abseil tat above the top pitch, some of it didn't look too bad... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Plenty of abseil tat above the top pitch, some of it didn't look too bad... |
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Grade: VD ***
(Sub Cneifion Rib)