Takes the stunning left hand blunt arĂȘte of the Central Block. Start as for Wrinkled Retainer which provides a good warm up for what's to come. After the crux of Wrinkled Retainer traverse out left, on obvious flakes to a good hold and sling on the arĂȘte. Ascend the right side of the arete to a good wire placement in an undercut flake. Make desperate moves around the arete to gain the thin hairline crack and a very difficult to place RP 4. A sustained sequence of lay backing brings the top into reach. 8a/+

James Mchaffie.


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Route of Interest

Requiem for a Vampire

Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)
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