Rockfax Description
Scramble up the chain to rack up on The Razor's Edge terrace.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the pillar left of the V-groove. Cross the next rib on the left and quest up to the crack for some more reassuring gear. Rise until level with the The Desolation of Smaug! belay and traverse over to it.
2) 6a, 40m. Clip the first bolt of The Desolation of Smaug! then enter the groove. Follow this until pushed onto the rib and then follow this until the first of Joe Brown's bolts is spotted over by the corner on the right. Gain this and go up to the bolt at Joe's high point (the bolt is difficult to clip as it is bunged up with old tat). Continue in the corner until a slightly unnerving slopey traverse gains the big slopey ledge. Shuffle left on this to the The Desolation of Smaug! belay.
3) 6a, 50m. Climb the corner system directly above the belay to a decaying pink sling on a flake. Make a rising traverse left (cam slot), then go back right past a possible belay to climb directly up the corner system above. There is another possible belay here - either way plug the gear in the easy bits because it is about to run out. The corner starts to fill out into the right arete. Surmount the arete to join pitch 5 of The Desolation of Smaug! just before the crux. Follow this to the belay.
4) 6b, 20m. Finish as for The Desolation of Smaug! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1 5b 30m Climb the pillar left of the v-groove, cross the next rib on the left and quest up to the crack for some more reassuring gear. Rise until level with the TDOS belay and traverse over to it.

P2 6a 40m Clip the first bolt of TDOS then enter the groove; follow this until pushed onto the rib and then follow this until the first of Joe Brown’s bolts is spotted over by the corner on the right. Gain this and go up to the bolt at his high point (the bolt is difficult to clip as it is bunged up with old tat). Continue in the corner until a slightly unnerving slopey traverse gains the big slopey ledge, shuffle left on this to the TDOS belay.

P3 6a 50m Climb the corner system directly above the belay, to a decaying pink sling on a flake (remnant of a Ray Kay jaunt). A rising traverse left meets the junction with the Taith Mawr Traverse (cam slot) follow this back right to where Taith Mawr belays but quest directly up the corner system above the belay (plug the gear in the easy bits because its about to run out). The corner starts to shut out into the right arête; surmount the arête to join P5 of TDOS just before the crux, follow this to the belay.

P4 5b/F6b 20m Finish as for TDOS.

Callum Muskett, Mark Dicken Sep/2014.

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