Rockfax Description
Another trad offering. Scramble up the chain to rack up on The Razor's Edge terrace.
1) 5b, 30m. Start as for The Antiquarian at the crack. Ascend this until it runs out, then follow the slabby side of the corner above until a bolt is reached. Belay here with whatever else you can find.
2) 6a, 35m. Continue up the corner until it is possible to gain the slopey ledge on the left. Arrange gear and make a rising traverse back right. Make dynamic moves across the corner to snatch a clean ledge on the far side. Thrutch onto the ledge.
3) 6a, 25m. Follow the left arete of the corner behind the belay (poor gear), until you can make a committing step up to a sloping ledge (small cam hidden on the left). Take a large stride left and grapple onto undercuts, or boldly pull upwards to reach some poor gear. Scamper left to a good foothold and undercuts (wire in a corner). Undercut wildly leftwards to the penultimate bolt of The Desolation of Smaug! and mantel up to the belay.
4) and 5) as for The Desolation of Smaug! © Rockfax
FA. M.Dicken,B.Ryle 9.2014 15/Sep/2014.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Esgair Maen Gwyn (Scimitar Ridge))