Rockfax Description
A great route, although many people may wish to abseil in from the top of the fin to savour the easier pitch two. To gain the base of the route, it is best to abseil from the belay station below Combat Rock .
1) 7a, 25m. Climb the attractive well-bolted slab/groove to the right of the second arete pitch of Black Hole Sun to a bolt belay on a ledge. An easy scramble leads up to the bolt belay of Black Hole Sun.
2) 6a+, 30m. Climb the groove to the left of the top arete pitch of Black Hole Sun, to reach a bolt belay on top of the fin of rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Abseil in from the top of the fin or use the South Wall abseil point above 'Wolfhound' alternatively carefully traverse rightwards (roped) from the Twll Mawr entrance Tunnel.
Pitch 1 - 25m 7a Climb the attractive slab / groove to the right of the 2nd (Arête) pitch of 'Black Hole Sun' past 10 Bolts to a Bolt Belay on a ledge, an easy scramble leads up to the bolt belay of ‘Black Hole Sun’.
Pitch 2 - 30m 6a+ Climb the groove to the left of the top Arête pitch of 'Black Hole Sun' 10 Bolts, to a bolt belay on top of the fin of rock.
The top pitch at 6a+ is the easiest sport pitch in Twll Mawr and is worth doing as a single pitch to 'experience' the Twll Mawr atmosphere (abseil in for this).
NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)
http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/
Ian Lloyd-Jones (P1) and Callum Nelson (p2) 15/Mar/2015.
Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Sl@teheads Sl@te , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)
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Grade: 7a ***
(Tyddyn Hywel Quarry)