UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A belter of a route, possibly the best on this wall.
1) 7a+, 25m. Climb the blocky start to a ledge. A crack-line points the way with increasing difficulty to a ledge below a V-groove. Ascend the groove on the left arete to a bolt belay on a ledge below the next pitch.
2) 7a, 25m. Follow the arete via some technical moves and long reaches.
3) 7a, 25m. The stunning arete is a cracking pitch and gives a fitting finale to this amazing route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Another great outing from the bottom of Twll Mawr, start to the right of Supermassive Black Hole F7a and In the Line of Fire F7c+.
Pitch 1 (25m) F7a+ climbs up to the blocky ledge to get established on the crackline which gets increasingly more difficult the higher you go. Gaining the ledge at the bottom of the clean cut groove is the goal, you will gain more brownie points by stepping 'in control' across onto this rather than slapping and wildly swinging for it! Climb the groove or Arete which is trickier than it looks to a bolt Belay at the base of the next pitch.
Pitch 2 (25m) F7a A great pitch with some reachy and balancey climbing following the line of the arete. Great moves from the ledge passing the final 2 bolts especially for the vertically challenged, you may have to jump or commit to some thin technical climbing. Bolt Belay.
Pitch 3 (25m) F7a A superb arete,again reachy and balancey climbing which will entertain and try and throw you off. 2 belay bolts on the Fin above on the Watford Gap track level.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones, Sion McGuinness, Phil Dowthwaite, Andy Schofield 14/Jul/2011.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , Slate ArĂȘtes (sport) , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Slate Sport , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Slate 2018/2019 , Sl@teheads Sl@te , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , Recommended Slate , North wales 7a+

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Arabesque

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Allen's Sunbeach)

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