UKC

180m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An epic outing with some fine climbing, and a magnificent fifth pitch which makes it all worthwhile. It is also currently claimed to be the longest sport route in the UK. Start at the base of a brown slab between the starts of The Desolation of Smaug! and Long in the Twll...
1) 6b, 30m. Follow the seam/crack feature to an easing at the arete. Surmount the large flake before traversing a series of cleaned ledges which lead up to a bolt belay at the base of the large slab.
2) 6a+, 35m. Follow the line of bolts directly up the slab to reach a vertical groove. Bridge up this to gain a diagonal groove feature which leads to a shared belay with Long in the Twll...
3) 6a, 25m. Follow the ramp feature to a horizontal break, then traverse along the break below the bolts until it is possible to step down into Hamadryad just above a dead tree. Continue up and rightwards past a hidden bolt on a block ledge, until it is possible to clip the last resin bolt on the second pitch of The Desolation of Smaug!. Belay on the slopy ledge as for The Desolation of Smaug!.
4) 6b, 25m. Climb The Desolation of Smaug! to the third bolt, before traversing across blocky ledges to a fixed rope on a square-cut block. Extend this with a sling and down climb until it is possible to step around the corner. Two further bolts (best to extend with slings) protect the remainder of the traverse to a bolt belay directly below the stunning arete.
5) 7a, 35m. This is what all the traversing was for; a stunning well-positioned technical arete which provides great climbing all the way. It is possible to belay at the top of the arete or continue diagonally up and left, on great dolerite and in an awesome position, to a mantel and then a bolt belay on a large ledge.
6) 6a+, 30m. Traverse leftwards along the gangway for about 8m or so, until you reach the base of the green dolerite arete. Continue up the arete in a fine position with some funky holds, to a belay where you can relax and enjoy some stunning views. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THE LONGEST SPORT ROUTE IN THE UK.
Tân y Ddraig (The Dragons Fire)
Start at the base of a brown slab between the start of 'The Desolation of Smaug!' and the 'Rock Bottom Line'
P1 - 28m 6b Follow the seam / crack feature to an easing at the arête, surmount the large flake before traversing a series of cleaned ledges which lead up to a bolt belay at the base of the large slab.
P2 - 37m 6a / 6a+ Follow the line of bolts directly up the slab to reach a vertical groove, bridge up this to gain a diagonal groove feature which leads to a shared belay ('Long in the Twll / The North will rise again')at the bottom of a ramp.
P3 - 25m 6a Follow the obvious ramp feature to a horizontal break, traverse along the break below the bolts until it is possible to step down into 'Hamadryad' just above a dead tree. Continue up and rightwards past a hidden bolt on a block ledge until it is possible to clip the last resin bolt on the second pitch of 'Smaug!'. Belay as for Smaug on the slopey ledge. Note all bolts on this pitch are well hidden and well away from the Trad route Hamadryad.
P4 - 25m 6b Climb up to the third resin Bolt on P3 of 'Smaug!' before traversing across blocky ledges to an insitu rope on a square cut block, extend this with a sling and down climb until it is possible to step around the corner. Two further bolts (best to extend with slings) protect the remainder of the traverse to a bolt belay directly below the stunning Arête.
P5 - 35m 7a This is what all the traversing was for, a stunning well positioned technical arête, crux by the 2nd / 3rd bolt, follow the arête which provides great climbing all the way. Possible belay at the top of the Arête or continue diagonally up and left on great dolerite in an awesome position to a mantel and bolt belay on a large ledge.
P6 - 30m 6a+ Traverse leftwards along the gangway for about 8m or so until the base of the green dolerite arête is reached, continue up the arête in a fine position with some funky holds to a belay where you can relax and enjoy some stunning views across to Crib Goch and Snowdon.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones (P1,3,4,5) Celt Lloyd-Jones (P2) Callum Nelson (P6) 04/May/2015.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Slate Arêtes (sport), The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!, Sl@teheads Sl@te, Slate Mastery

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 5 Apr Show βeta
βeta: On pitch 3, where you cross hamadryad a small cam would be better than a wire as when taking in the rope at the belay a wire will be easily lifted out. On pitch 4 you should clip the 4th bolt on smaug then traverse. The rope round the block is in need of replacing. A loop of about 3m should be ample. Placing a leaver biner on that loop of rope would allow the second a back rope and be sensible since the down climb is not trivial and is a little loose - pulling off something there and falling would be very nasty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On pitch 3, where you cross hamadryad a small cam would be better than a wire as when taking in the rope at the belay a wire will be easily lifted out. On pitch 4 you should clip the 4th bolt on smaug then traverse. The rope round the block is in need of replacing. A loop of about 3m should be ample. Placing a leaver biner on that loop of rope would allow the second a back rope and be sensible since the down climb is not trivial and is a little loose - pulling off something there and falling would be very nasty.
gowain 16 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bolt 5&6 missing on pitch 1. Can ascend without these bolts but somewhat bold for sport.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolt 5&6 missing on pitch 1. Can ascend without these bolts but somewhat bold for sport.

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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
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Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
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Grade: 7a ***
(Bryn Eglwys Quarry)
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