Rockfax Description
More choss on the right of the wall. The initial rock used to be covered by scree.
1) 4c, 20m. Start 5m right of Bushmaster and ascend the stack of blocks of your choice up the ramp-line to gain a vague groove feature. Follow this to below a nasty looking arete and belay in the groove.
2) 5a, 30m. Head up the short groove and step across the chasm! Follow the shelf to the corner on the left. Climb the left side of the blocky prow in the corner to a small tree. Move right onto a gentle ramp that zig-zags up to The Balcony. Belay at the tunnel entrance that used to lead to Mordor by The Beast In Me but has now been blocked by a rock fall meaning that there is no easy escape from here!
3) 5b, 25m. Scramble above the tunnel to the bottom of the big rift. Climb this with much excitement to a sloping ledge covered in spiky dog rose. Reach out left in a wild position to gain a good hold on the left arete. Climb this to another tunnel and a boulder belay.
4) 5a, 15m. Continue up towards the steep and juggy headwall and gain the grassy col and rowan tree belay. Escape down the rusty chain on the right to the Khyber Pass. © Rockfax

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