UKC

125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Is it ruined or improved by the bolts on the third pitch?
1) 5c, 40m. Follow The Razor's Edge to the first bolt and continue straight up to the off-width bomb-bay chimney. Pull out left to a slab and belay above on a ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Follow the seam up to the Twll Love belay.
3) 6b, 45m. Go up the crack until on top of the pedestal, where gear and some techy fingertip jams allow a lurch onto the jug on the right arete. Follow the arete (bolts) to where it rejoins the crack and continue up the dolerite band to belay on a ledge.
4) 4c, 20m. Head up and right as for The True Finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 5c, 40m. Follow The Razor's Edge to the first bolt and continue straight up to the off-width bomb-bay chimney (cam #5). Pull out left to a slab and belay above on a ledge.
1) 5a, 20m. Follow the seam up to the Twll Love belay.
3) 6b, 45m. Go up the crack until on top of the pedestal, where gear and some techy fingertip jams allow a lurch onto the jug on the right arete. Follow the arete (bolts) to where it rejoins the crack and continue up the dolerite band to belay on a ledge.
4) 20m. Scramble off as for The True Finish.

Calum Muskett, Mark Dicken 01/May/2015.

Ticklists

Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing

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Route of Interest
A Point of Snow Return

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Bryn y Dyfrgi)

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