Rockfax Description
The parallel line to the left of Bushmaster starting up the groove round to its left. The route starts 10m right of the chain of Razor's edge, at a rib just right of a rusty pipe.
1) 6a, 35m. Follow the rib as it rises leftwards until it reaches a corner. Surmount this and scramble up to the bolt and shot-hole in the bay above - possible belay. Climb the groove boldly to good gear near the top and some tricky exit moves to a good belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Continue in the same line to belay in the corner down and right of the roofs.
3) 6b, 40m. Traverse left from the belay and get some gear in a thin groove in the arete. Climb up and left into a bold and insecure groove, which leads back to the right to a good rest before the roof. Assemble some poor small wires and skyhooks before tackling the V-groove in the roof. Very committing moves up the groove lead to some good but hard-to-place gear, then an easier pull over the roof and a pleasant finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6a, 5b, 6b Takes a parallel line to the left of Bushmaster starting up the groove round to its left. 1.) Climb the groove boldly to good gear near the top and some tricky exit moves to a good belay. 2.) Continue in the same line to belay in the corner down and right of the roofs. 3.) Traverse left from the belay and get some gear in a thin groove in the arete. Climb up and left into a bold and insecure groove which leads back to the right to a good rest before the roof. Assemble some poor small wires and sky hooks before tackling the V groove in the roof. Very committing moves up the groove lead to some good but difficult to place gear before an easier pull over the roof and a pleasant finish.
Calum Muskett, Steve Long, Mark Dicken and Gabby Lees 03/Jul/2015.
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Grade: E7 6b ***
(Craig yr Aderyn (Bird Rock))