UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

135m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK, but now surpassed by its neighbours to the right. It is still a great adventure from the very bottom to the top of the Quarryman Wall.
1) 6b, 30m. Climb the slab in the corner with some bridging. From the ninth bolt, carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a bolt belay.
2) 7a, 30m. The crack and flake-line are easy to start, but have a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge. Bolt belay.
3) 6b, 30m. Climb the slab/wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (two bolts). Continue up the arete past three bolts to the 'Matilda' ledge. Bolt belay.
4) 7b+, 25m. A beginners' Quarryman groove leads to a bolt belay below Wonderful World...
5) 7b, 20m. Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake and crack system up the attractive bulging wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. The crux is either a high step up right or left - take your pick. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK now the 4th longest to 'Tan y Ddraig' still a great adventure from the very bottom of Twll Mawr to the Top of the Quarryman wall.

Pitch 1 (30m)F6b Climbs the Slab in the corner with some bridging. Clip the high 9th bolt and carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a double bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (30m)F7a Takes the obvious crack and flake line, easy to start, with a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge and double bolt belay where Opening Gambit used to cross.
Pitch 3 (30m)F6b The slab / wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (2 bolts) continue up the arete past 3 bolts taking you to the 'Matilda Ledge' double bolt belay.
Pitch 4 (25m)F7b+ The immaculate green groove above beckons. A beginners Quarryman groove. 2 bolt belay below Wonderful World of Walt Disney.
Pitch 5 (20m)F7b Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake / crack system up the attractive bulging slab / wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. Crux is either a high step up right or left take your pick.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 03/Oct/2011.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+ , Slate Sport , The Longest Sport Routes in the UK , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Sl@teheads Sl@te , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , James' Summer Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
soph 15 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: One of the bolts on pitch 1 has been damaged by rockfall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the bolts on pitch 1 has been damaged by rockfall.
Gemmazrobo 22 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Single spinny bolt belay after p1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Single spinny bolt belay after p1

Logged Ascents

35 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Twll Mawr

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 74 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
True Clip

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)

Loading Notifications...