Rockfax Description
95m. One of the best E4s in the country, a brilliant hybrid which combines tremendous situations with superb climbing in a committing situation. The line is a rising traverse above the huge sea cave and retreat from higher up would be difficult. Start at the left end of the Lower Tier, on the left wall of a corner.
1. 20m 5c Climb an undercut groove then move left and climb a white crack to a perfect ledge and belay.
2. 25m 5b Traverse left along the exposed horizontal break then move up to a ledge on the right. Make a rising left traverse across an orangey-brown-coloured wall to gain a small ledge at the girdling break; belay on large cams.
3. 30m 5c Move right over a bulge and follow a line of black pockets going left to a large but secure block under the roof; The Screaming Ab Dabs goes up through the roofs above. Move left round the front of the block onto large holds, then continue traversing leftwards to belay beneath a curious downwards-pointing flake.
4. 20m 5c Continue leftwards up and across a white quartzy wall then go round the roof onto a pink pegmatite wall and climb directly to a ramp which leads rightwards to the top. Alternatively, climb up and left round the roof to gain the ramp then climb the crack up the headwall on the left. This maintains the diagonal line with no change in grade or quality.
FA P.Robins, B.Bransby & others (pitch 4 variation), Jun 2004 © Rockfax

FA. Howard Jones, Glenda Huxter 29/May/1996.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Good E4s , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Lewis Extreme , James' Summer Ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Must climb at crags , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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