7 bolts, One of the last obvious unclimbed lines at Uphill take an uncompromising direct route through the tiers of roofs between the trad classics Turn in the Grave and Crematorium. Fine moves in a spectacular but safe position make the slightly involved approach worthwhile.
Approach:
Starts from a double bolt belay on top of the large square pedestal right of Proper Job, about half way up the crag.
Either climb the lower part of Crematorium or Crematorium Life to the ledge, or abseil in via new grey stakes in front of the church wall.
From the belay ledge follow the left hand line of bolts. Fierce moves on tiny pockets lead to a good hand slot under the biggest roof. Blast upwards with not a lot for the fingers and even less for the toes, till a line of positive holds above the last roof provides welcome respite. From here less strenuous but more intricate climbing leads as directly as possible up the airy headwall. A final bolt runner protects a pull on fragile finishing jugs to a two bolt lower-off out right.
Approach:
Starts from a double bolt belay on top of the large square pedestal right of Proper Job, about half way up the crag.
Either climb the lower part of Crematorium or Crematorium Life to the ledge, or abseil in via new grey stakes in front of the church wall.
From the belay ledge follow the left hand line of bolts. Fierce moves on tiny pockets lead to a good hand slot under the biggest roof. Blast upwards with not a lot for the fingers and even less for the toes, till a line of positive holds above the last roof provides welcome respite. From here less strenuous but more intricate climbing leads as directly as possible up the airy headwall. A final bolt runner protects a pull on fragile finishing jugs to a two bolt lower-off out right.
John Alcock 28/Feb/2021.
Ticklists
7Bs with stars near Bristol , Soft touches near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Matt Clifton | 3 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Can be climbed from ground in onepitch with new start up crux of proper job then past bolt on turn in the grave. Take some long slings/ draws. About 7a+ | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can be climbed from ground in onepitch with new start up crux of proper job then past bolt on turn in the grave. Take some long slings/ draws. About 7a+ |
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| Jostar | 5 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like 7a/7a+ to me. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Felt more like 7a/7a+ to me. |
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Route of Interest
Still Waters Run Deep
Grade: 7b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)