Rockfax Description
This major hard route with five difficult and dangerous pitches following an incredible line through the steep headwall to join up with Freya before heading to the summit. The route can be approached by the first 12 pitches of Freya (N7-) - the FA team did this in two hours! Alternatively, it may be faster and is certainly easier, to use the Storpillaren approach and then climb the first pitch of Genus Locy (N6-). The sport grades were given by the first ascent team.
1) N6-, 45m. As for pitch 1 of Genus Locy. Alterntively you may have just done the first 12 pitches of Freya (N7 max).
2) N8+, 40m, (7c+). Move the belay over to Freya (left to the corner) for better rope positioning. Climb Freya for 20m then go right on the belay ledge and climb straight up to enter the left groove (small wires on the left) and belay on the slabby section.
3) N8+, 20m, (7c). Bridge up the groove to a no-hands rest and belay in a niche.
4) N8+, 30m, (7c+). Continue up to the end of the groove and exit right to belay on top of a slanting ledge.
5) N9-, 40m, (8a ), 40m. Boulder past a fixed bird-beak. Climb right under the roof to a thin crack system going up and left as far as a big slanting belay ledge.
6) N9-, 30m, (8a ). Climb up small pillar (a bit loose), then continue straight up slab and traverse a left to reach a seam just right of the arete (good protection). Climb this to the big bivvi ledge at the end of pitch 17 of Freya.
7) N6+, 25. Use the free version of p18 of Freya. Climb the back of the niche as Freya, then traverse left and a down to reach good holds on the face above. Climb this to a wide crack and go back right to rejoin Freya. Said to be very serious.
8) N6-, 9) N6+, 10) N6. Follow Freya then Storm Pillar to the junction with Storpillaren.
Descent - Follow Storpillaren to the summit, or abseil. © Rockfax

FA. Andreas Klarstr?m, Adam Pustelnik 8/9.8.2014.


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Guidebooks for Vagakallen

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High n9-/9
Mid n9-/9
Low n9-/9
High n9-
Mid n9-
Low n9-
High n8+
Mid n8+
Low n8+
Route of Interest
Still nameless

Grade: n9- ***

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