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UKC Logbook Description The most famous route on slate? Well-chalked and visible from Pete's Eats, this stunning crackline takes the centre of the Dervish slab, passing an overlap at two thirds height. "It's alright man, we're experienced rock cats."
So polished. Should have expected it really. Very slippery in the rain and hail showers.
Great line, but really let down by the sheer amount of polish. Would have been great in the early days.
So polished. Should have expected it really. Very slippery in the rain and hail showers.
Great line, but really let down by the sheer amount of polish. Would have been great in the early days.
Finally got round to leading this classic! Would class it as a retro-flash as it was a good few years ago that I seconded it with a bad cold, and couldn't remember any beta for it.
Psyched to lead it clean, probably my hardest proper trad route so far :)
with Kim TM
Finally got round to leading this classic! Would class it as a retro-flash as it was a good few years ago that I seconded it with a bad cold, and couldn't remember any beta for it.
Psyched to lead it clean, probably my hardest proper trad route so far :)
With Jon. i am rubbish at slabs so 'warming up' probably unwise. bottom felt very polished, slippery and sketchy. up and down loads slipping all over the place before finally went for it. agony in my calves as go upward, to the crux, launched out right into the jugs to get some relief on the adjacent E5, was suspended in air about to fall but crimped down hard and somehow stayed on. Crept back into route proper and really enjoyed the top. Solid E3 for me
With Jon. i am rubbish at slabs so 'warming up' probably unwise. bottom felt very polished, slippery and sketchy. up and down loads slipping all over the place before finally went for it. agony in my calves as go upward, to the crux, launched out right into the jugs to get some relief on the adjacent E5, was suspended in air about to fall but crimped down hard and somehow stayed on. Crept back into route proper and really enjoyed the top. Solid E3 for me
An excellent lead by Pippa - apparently she had been wanting to do this for 20 years! Bottom is a bit nervy until you get cam in the good slot (although she had a decent piece lower down too), then it is fine technical climbing on a superb line. Brief tight rope in the middle. Moving through the overlap is an excellent move, and not too hard.
with Pippa Archer
An excellent lead by Pippa - apparently she had been wanting to do this for 20 years! Bottom is a bit nervy until you get cam in the good slot (although she had a decent piece lower down too), then it is fine technical climbing on a superb line. Brief tight rope in the middle. Moving through the overlap is an excellent move, and not too hard.
Genuinely the most incredible route I've ever done. I was spent by the end but I got the crux and only pinged off at the start. Had to get used to edge better.
Plenty of gear and a jug pull after the overhang transition.
with Will Dixon, Ross Spurs
Genuinely the most incredible route I've ever done. I was spent by the end but I got the crux and only pinged off at the start. Had to get used to edge better.
Plenty of gear and a jug pull after the overhang transition.
Just fantastic. Had some pretty marginal RPs protecting the tricky first few meters which i wouldn't have wanted to test, after the first bit of decent gear you can relax a bit but not too much! Thought provoking moves and ever increasing calf pump to a decent rest before the overlap. From then on its probably mild E2. Such an absorbing route that deserves its legendary status.
Just fantastic. Had some pretty marginal RPs protecting the tricky first few meters which i wouldn't have wanted to test, after the first bit of decent gear you can relax a bit but not too much! Thought provoking moves and ever increasing calf pump to a decent rest before the overlap. From then on its probably mild E2. Such an absorbing route that deserves its legendary status.
Ecstatic! Can't really claim the onsight after seeing so many videos/stories about it. As good as I'd hoped, less scary then I thought! Only E3 for the runout at the start
Ecstatic! Can't really claim the onsight after seeing so many videos/stories about it. As good as I'd hoped, less scary then I thought! Only E3 for the runout at the start
What a mega pitch, the hype is real! Couldn't fiddle in any micros so just committed to getting to the cam slot, quite bold. After follows lovely tricky sustained climbing until excellent moves get you over the overlap. Glad I didn't put off getting on it for too long, as it was the perfect balance between cruising and testing. How long have you been putting it off? Get on it!
What a mega pitch, the hype is real! Couldn't fiddle in any micros so just committed to getting to the cam slot, quite bold. After follows lovely tricky sustained climbing until excellent moves get you over the overlap. Glad I didn't put off getting on it for too long, as it was the perfect balance between cruising and testing. How long have you been putting it off? Get on it!
Found the start a little bit nerve-racking, think I'd equip it after abbing from last tango if I were to do it again. Good route, but not amazing. Should have done it a couple years ago really. Saw that Dan logged it as onsight, but dogged the crap out of the first half. Tut tut!
Found the start a little bit nerve-racking, think I'd equip it after abbing from last tango if I were to do it again. Good route, but not amazing. Should have done it a couple years ago really. Saw that Dan logged it as onsight, but dogged the crap out of the first half. Tut tut!
Proper! Really well protected have a go,the crux was fine but nearly dropped the move up to the overlap when I missed a foothold a skidded down the slab.
Proper! Really well protected have a go,the crux was fine but nearly dropped the move up to the overlap when I missed a foothold a skidded down the slab.
In newly resoled shoes in the cold. Felt a bit slippery! Hard move before the first gear (cam slot, could find NOTHING before there, tried plenty of RPs and micros). After that it’s steady away to the overlap and mega safe. Nice rockover move through the roof (moved left under it). Above is where it got worse for me! Good #2 micro a little way up the slab but that was the only gear I could find on that wall. Did a rockover press move in to one of the niches but didn’t quite get my foot on and started to fall off. Scary and well bold up top, I thought after the overlap it was in the bag! Rained on the ab. Great line, harder or more like scarier than I expected
In newly resoled shoes in the cold. Felt a bit slippery! Hard move before the first gear (cam slot, could find NOTHING before there, tried plenty of RPs and micros). After that it’s steady away to the overlap and mega safe. Nice rockover move through the roof (moved left under it). Above is where it got worse for me! Good #2 micro a little way up the slab but that was the only gear I could find on that wall. Did a rockover press move in to one of the niches but didn’t quite get my foot on and started to fall off. Scary and well bold up top, I thought after the overlap it was in the bag! Rained on the ab. Great line, harder or more like scarier than I expected
Very annoyed to blow the o/s. Missed a foothold low down and tried to do a desperate cruxefix move which was probably about 6b. Back on and the move felt simple. Never settled on it and climbed very poorly but a fantastic route nevertheless. Definitely come back and lead it again.
Very annoyed to blow the o/s. Missed a foothold low down and tried to do a desperate cruxefix move which was probably about 6b. Back on and the move felt simple. Never settled on it and climbed very poorly but a fantastic route nevertheless. Definitely come back and lead it again.
20 years on the wish list. Fantastic route, wonderful line , sustained.
19 pieces of gear, none over a size 7 nut or 1.5 friend.
Crux is the move at 20ft on a micro wire.
with bill farmer
20 years on the wish list. Fantastic route, wonderful line , sustained.
19 pieces of gear, none over a size 7 nut or 1.5 friend.
Crux is the move at 20ft on a micro wire.
Suuuuper happy to have smashed this one in the drizzle! Wasn't expecting to get up to E3 this year, and this was no cruise to be fair. A few hard and dangerous moves before the bomber gear at 8m..
Suuuuper happy to have smashed this one in the drizzle! Wasn't expecting to get up to E3 this year, and this was no cruise to be fair. A few hard and dangerous moves before the bomber gear at 8m..
It felt amazing to be back on this, I've done so much since my last attempt and it just flowed beautifully today. Once past the first bit of gear I'd forgotten how many sinker placements there are. Loved all of it and it topped out still fresh after about 25 mins wanting more.
It felt amazing to be back on this, I've done so much since my last attempt and it just flowed beautifully today. Once past the first bit of gear I'd forgotten how many sinker placements there are. Loved all of it and it topped out still fresh after about 25 mins wanting more.
Fell off one move before the overlap foot ledge. Got tired and rushed it. Pulled ropes and tried again but too worn out after first atempt. Rested on the rope at the high point.
with Andy Hemsted
Fell off one move before the overlap foot ledge. Got tired and rushed it. Pulled ropes and tried again but too worn out after first atempt. Rested on the rope at the high point.
So upset to fall on this. Passed the crux fine but made a stupid mistake with my feet just below the overlap. Got back on and finished, top part was spicy with just a microwire far below!
So upset to fall on this. Passed the crux fine but made a stupid mistake with my feet just below the overlap. Got back on and finished, top part was spicy with just a microwire far below!
Had one rest before the dog leg and feel disappointed as finished the route ok and was tired after a long weekend..
Brilliant climb deserves three stars .
Had one rest before the dog leg and feel disappointed as finished the route ok and was tired after a long weekend..
Brilliant climb deserves three stars .
Oho. So good! Actually pretty fine after the first 7m or so but they are very committing. You have to run it out until you reach a slot which takes 2 green dragons and after that just enjoy the climbing up a fantastic crack. Maybe the most obvious line I've ever seen given how chalked it is.
Oho. So good! Actually pretty fine after the first 7m or so but they are very committing. You have to run it out until you reach a slot which takes 2 green dragons and after that just enjoy the climbing up a fantastic crack. Maybe the most obvious line I've ever seen given how chalked it is.
Whoop! Not the hardest route I've done or the scariest but certainly one of my most coveted. Been wanting to do this for years, have had it as my desktop background forever. Had a surprisingly dry morning in the upper quarries and while having a quick cuppa in Pete's and gazing at it in the distance, thought let's go for it! Quite strenuous from the start and on reasonably polished holds. Thought the crux wasn't much harder than the rest, but had a bit of a gibber after the overlap as was harder than I wanted above small, runout gear. Abbed off as it was dark and had a celebratory pub in the Heights, only then found out it was an "extreme rock" tick!
Whoop! Not the hardest route I've done or the scariest but certainly one of my most coveted. Been wanting to do this for years, have had it as my desktop background forever. Had a surprisingly dry morning in the upper quarries and while having a quick cuppa in Pete's and gazing at it in the distance, thought let's go for it! Quite strenuous from the start and on reasonably polished holds. Thought the crux wasn't much harder than the rest, but had a bit of a gibber after the overlap as was harder than I wanted above small, runout gear. Abbed off as it was dark and had a celebratory pub in the Heights, only then found out it was an "extreme rock" tick!
Gutted to slip on the crux, pulled the ropes and headed up again for a ground up only to have a foot pop on the overlap. One to clean up when I'm next passing.
Gutted to slip on the crux, pulled the ropes and headed up again for a ground up only to have a foot pop on the overlap. One to clean up when I'm next passing.
Not the best choice of route as I'd twisted my ankle the day before. Absolute agony.
Amazing route with good but hard fought gear.
Take extra quickdraws, then take five more. :)
Not the best choice of route as I'd twisted my ankle the day before. Absolute agony.
Amazing route with good but hard fought gear.
Take extra quickdraws, then take five more. :)
Brilliant climbing, a little polished at the start but definitely deserves its popular status and 3 stars. Nearly fluffed the start .... trust your feet and keep moving. I spent a fair bit of time on the route and my toes were burning. Chuffed to tick one of the most famous lines on slate!
with Joe Hook
Brilliant climbing, a little polished at the start but definitely deserves its popular status and 3 stars. Nearly fluffed the start .... trust your feet and keep moving. I spent a fair bit of time on the route and my toes were burning. Chuffed to tick one of the most famous lines on slate!
Wanted to do this for years, super pleased to get the tick. Start felt a bit sketchy with all the polish, after that just needed to manage the toes/calves.
with Ed W
Wanted to do this for years, super pleased to get the tick. Start felt a bit sketchy with all the polish, after that just needed to manage the toes/calves.
1st E3, soooo happy! Climbed it in the rare, welsh evening sunshine with absolutely no problems! Didn't find the crux hard and really enjoyed the thin run out at the top. Not bad for the first trad trip of the year! Amazing route and every bit worth the wait!
1st E3, soooo happy! Climbed it in the rare, welsh evening sunshine with absolutely no problems! Didn't find the crux hard and really enjoyed the thin run out at the top. Not bad for the first trad trip of the year! Amazing route and every bit worth the wait!
Finally got the balls to step off the polished starting jug, great route, fairly sustained until the rest at the overlap, gear is ridiculously good after 8m, just gotta go for it
with Max
Finally got the balls to step off the polished starting jug, great route, fairly sustained until the rest at the overlap, gear is ridiculously good after 8m, just gotta go for it
Yes!!! elated, have been eyeing this up since starting bangor. Backed off Start last year and felt pretty intimidated starting out today. Felt very sustained before the overlap with great gear after the initial section. totally underestimated the runout above the over-lap a little bit squeaky bum, I was totally gripped for the last few metres trying not to shake myself off.
Yes!!! elated, have been eyeing this up since starting bangor. Backed off Start last year and felt pretty intimidated starting out today. Felt very sustained before the overlap with great gear after the initial section. totally underestimated the runout above the over-lap a little bit squeaky bum, I was totally gripped for the last few metres trying not to shake myself off.
Interesting that the GroundUp slate guide says this is a 'soft' E3, wasn't anything at all soft about it in my mind! The start is very poorly protected and polished to hell, after that it is super well protected but still very polished and sustained. By the time I got to the nice rest at the roof after the crux I was a pumped mess and my feet were ready to fall off. What a fantastic route! ****
Interesting that the GroundUp slate guide says this is a 'soft' E3, wasn't anything at all soft about it in my mind! The start is very poorly protected and polished to hell, after that it is super well protected but still very polished and sustained. By the time I got to the nice rest at the roof after the crux I was a pumped mess and my feet were ready to fall off. What a fantastic route! ****
Made up to get this done, feels like a post surgery milestone. Came off a few times sorting feet to reach the good rest under the overlap, and had to take some deep breaths on the upper slab, but got there in the end.
Made up to get this done, feels like a post surgery milestone. Came off a few times sorting feet to reach the good rest under the overlap, and had to take some deep breaths on the upper slab, but got there in the end.
Always wanted this since I first saw it on climbing films. Shocked at how magical the quarry is. After the first few moves it was only a matter of time before I was off..atleast thats what I thought! First proper route on slate and despite lack of wires on my rack and the midges majorly kicking in at 2/3 height I somehow got up it. Loved how much it challenged me but that run out at the top is a bit cheeky isn't it?! incredible route. Bit of a slag of a route none the less with the amount of chalk left on her. Trip Endex. Happy.
Always wanted this since I first saw it on climbing films. Shocked at how magical the quarry is. After the first few moves it was only a matter of time before I was off..atleast thats what I thought! First proper route on slate and despite lack of wires on my rack and the midges majorly kicking in at 2/3 height I somehow got up it. Loved how much it challenged me but that run out at the top is a bit cheeky isn't it?! incredible route. Bit of a slag of a route none the less with the amount of chalk left on her. Trip Endex. Happy.
Brilliant! Nearly threw myself backwards off the start trying to wiggle some tiny wires, downclimbed for a breather then straight up (placed 16 runners). Feels like half Llanberis is watching you!
with Rob Law
Brilliant! Nearly threw myself backwards off the start trying to wiggle some tiny wires, downclimbed for a breather then straight up (placed 16 runners). Feels like half Llanberis is watching you!
Drat - slipped off on the polish! First go at leading E3 so not too sad as found the actual climbing much easier than when I seconded it clean years ago :)
with peri
Drat - slipped off on the polish! First go at leading E3 so not too sad as found the actual climbing much easier than when I seconded it clean years ago :)
Shame about the start! Really good route, amazing line, good moves and varied climbing. 3 star only bad comments would be about the start so do it before it gets worse!
with Sabby
Shame about the start! Really good route, amazing line, good moves and varied climbing. 3 star only bad comments would be about the start so do it before it gets worse!
What a route! Simply superb throughout. Well sustained. Blew onsight with a slip off a glassy foothold with my feet only 4ft off the floor! Held by microwire. Then pulled rope and completed route with no further falls so as near as dammit to onsight. Start feels very bold to good cam at 8m. There are microwires and offsets to be placed below this butnone too inspiring. Rest of route eats small gear by the shedload. Used 13 quickdraws on it.
What a route! Simply superb throughout. Well sustained. Blew onsight with a slip off a glassy foothold with my feet only 4ft off the floor! Held by microwire. Then pulled rope and completed route with no further falls so as near as dammit to onsight. Start feels very bold to good cam at 8m. There are microwires and offsets to be placed below this butnone too inspiring. Rest of route eats small gear by the shedload. Used 13 quickdraws on it.
Got really spooked on this. A couple of silly slips at the start totally shook my confidence and wasn't able to compose myself for the rest of the route. Ended up messing up an easy move in the middle and falling right by gear, very unhappy with my performance and would like to come back to do it again in better style!
with tom p, jack g
Got really spooked on this. A couple of silly slips at the start totally shook my confidence and wasn't able to compose myself for the rest of the route. Ended up messing up an easy move in the middle and falling right by gear, very unhappy with my performance and would like to come back to do it again in better style!
Big lead finally got around to doing it! Took 18 draws and ran out before the top... Awesome route, with great moves and good gear - definitely worth the hype!!
Big lead finally got around to doing it! Took 18 draws and ran out before the top... Awesome route, with great moves and good gear - definitely worth the hype!!
Awesome route. Shoes literally just slipped off about 10m up, started route again and got 2nd time. Giant slug in crux holds made it a bit harder...a lot easier after the overhang.
Awesome route. Shoes literally just slipped off about 10m up, started route again and got 2nd time. Giant slug in crux holds made it a bit harder...a lot easier after the overhang.
Went up to the crux but was psyched out after ending up on a bold E4 earlier and having to back off. Way way too hot, down climbed. Will come back with better conditions and more psyche.
Went up to the crux but was psyched out after ending up on a bold E4 earlier and having to back off. Way way too hot, down climbed. Will come back with better conditions and more psyche.
Just a pro show - felt really tired this week. Need too come back.
Gave up and rested after first good piece of gear at 8 meters. The rested again and decided to back off just under the rightward swerve.
Just a pro show - felt really tired this week. Need too come back.
Gave up and rested after first good piece of gear at 8 meters. The rested again and decided to back off just under the rightward swerve.
Amazing. Definitely very much harder than Pull My Daisy and not soft touch either with the polish! Not in the bag til you hit the final jugs. So psyched!
Amazing. Definitely very much harder than Pull My Daisy and not soft touch either with the polish! Not in the bag til you hit the final jugs. So psyched!
must have climbed up and down the first bit 3 times till I committed above the micro's. climbed after jons first fall with his top wire still in. great to finally get on it after standing underneath it ready to go and getting rained off 2 years ago.
must have climbed up and down the first bit 3 times till I committed above the micro's. climbed after jons first fall with his top wire still in. great to finally get on it after standing underneath it ready to go and getting rained off 2 years ago.
Took a whipper and got inverted when foot popped after dogleg right - probably a bit hot in full sun. Got it next go later in evening when cooler. Rope burn on left calf as memento.
Took a whipper and got inverted when foot popped after dogleg right - probably a bit hot in full sun. Got it next go later in evening when cooler. Rope burn on left calf as memento.
Steady at E3, lots of bomber gear and just a couple hardish moves. Every piece of gear is pretty much as good as a bolt, pit 18 runners and run out of draws. Mega classic, go do it!
with Tom le fanu
Steady at E3, lots of bomber gear and just a couple hardish moves. Every piece of gear is pretty much as good as a bolt, pit 18 runners and run out of draws. Mega classic, go do it!
Felt harder than two years ago! I'll put that down to early season weakness - second trad lead do the year. Generally fine but got a bit stuck just below the overlap, trying to get stood up on two good flatties - couldn't figure out the moves! Had to climb back down a little for a rest. Straightforward 5b move once I realised what to do. Great route even second time round.
with Mark
Felt harder than two years ago! I'll put that down to early season weakness - second trad lead do the year. Generally fine but got a bit stuck just below the overlap, trying to get stood up on two good flatties - couldn't figure out the moves! Had to climb back down a little for a rest. Straightforward 5b move once I realised what to do. Great route even second time round.
If it hadn't rained this wold of gon clean slate really has no friction in the wet! The start is safe ish with small brass wires:-) fiddley to place well
with Will
If it hadn't rained this wold of gon clean slate really has no friction in the wet! The start is safe ish with small brass wires:-) fiddley to place well
Stoked to have done this. Much more sustained than pull my daisy and very polished in places.
Loads of gear after the cheeky start.
Great route slightly detracted from by the polish.
Climbed up and down the start a few times.
Stoked to have done this. Much more sustained than pull my daisy and very polished in places.
Loads of gear after the cheeky start.
Great route slightly detracted from by the polish.
Climbed up and down the start a few times.
Not as much fun this time. Could have been my very sore toes or crap new boots. Pleased to have done it clean but not in the same bracket as centrefold
Not as much fun this time. Could have been my very sore toes or crap new boots. Pleased to have done it clean but not in the same bracket as centrefold
One fall just before the overlap due to a left foot slip. Was fairly tired setting off up this route so fairly happy to get up my first E3 regardless of the fall. Will get it clean next time for sure
One fall just before the overlap due to a left foot slip. Was fairly tired setting off up this route so fairly happy to get up my first E3 regardless of the fall. Will get it clean next time for sure
Dropped my set of nuts just before the step out right, so had to lower down and do it again, then fell off just before the overlap! Bit gutted by that but finished it clean after. Such an awesome amazing climb! Eats lots of microwires
with Matthew Jaques
Dropped my set of nuts just before the step out right, so had to lower down and do it again, then fell off just before the overlap! Bit gutted by that but finished it clean after. Such an awesome amazing climb! Eats lots of microwires
After dark, by headtorch with the Llanberis fireworks going off in the background! Blew some moves and fell a few times, but amazing route, can't wait to come back and try and get it clean.
with Martin, Jonnie
After dark, by headtorch with the Llanberis fireworks going off in the background! Blew some moves and fell a few times, but amazing route, can't wait to come back and try and get it clean.
greased off about 3m up, fortunately there is actually a good wire just before, lowered off then onsighted, (so technically not onsight). Reckon a bit overated, kinda the same moves all the way to the top
with alison
greased off about 3m up, fortunately there is actually a good wire just before, lowered off then onsighted, (so technically not onsight). Reckon a bit overated, kinda the same moves all the way to the top
Had the thrill of doing this at the last minute on the last day of the trip. Spent 50 minutes on the route and topped out soon before dark. Amazing experience throughout. Many thanks to Rich Clarke for driving me there and holding the ropes. One of the best routes.
with Richard Clarke
Had the thrill of doing this at the last minute on the last day of the trip. Spent 50 minutes on the route and topped out soon before dark. Amazing experience throughout. Many thanks to Rich Clarke for driving me there and holding the ropes. One of the best routes.
very pleased, I didn't notice a crux, there are some smoothish footholds, the beginning is great fun, some small RP's protect this quite well, in fact small pro all the way was ample.
getting past the overlap was easier than Tango. And once over the overlap, rejoice, there isn't much gear and on a hot day those flat triangle impressions feel very slippy, but there is some nice moves and a run out.
I loved this route.
with John Rogers
very pleased, I didn't notice a crux, there are some smoothish footholds, the beginning is great fun, some small RP's protect this quite well, in fact small pro all the way was ample.
getting past the overlap was easier than Tango. And once over the overlap, rejoice, there isn't much gear and on a hot day those flat triangle impressions feel very slippy, but there is some nice moves and a run out.
I loved this route.
I'm speechless for this one. Emotional at the top, 6 years of dreaming and wondering, a solid year of preparation! Huge milestone and highpoint of my climbing career. Some of the bits i'd heard were hard went dead easy (start & overlap), probably found hardest bit the dogleg and move from first gear slot. Totally totally classic and engrossing throughout though. I'm this pleased :)))))
I'm speechless for this one. Emotional at the top, 6 years of dreaming and wondering, a solid year of preparation! Huge milestone and highpoint of my climbing career. Some of the bits i'd heard were hard went dead easy (start & overlap), probably found hardest bit the dogleg and move from first gear slot. Totally totally classic and engrossing throughout though. I'm this pleased :)))))
this is such a iconic route. Its bin climbed to much and I felt it was slippy. fell off the start not to hy off the gound, still a good thud though, and fell half way up due to my foot slipping both times did'nt even find it hard just steady. A brilliant line and route though think it loses one of its stars now due to it bing over climbed
with johny
this is such a iconic route. Its bin climbed to much and I felt it was slippy. fell off the start not to hy off the gound, still a good thud though, and fell half way up due to my foot slipping both times did'nt even find it hard just steady. A brilliant line and route though think it loses one of its stars now due to it bing over climbed
cool, first E3! and onsight too! pretty hard up to the overlap then a bit dodge on the flakes! foot hold broke within a meter of topping out but lukily i stayed on! topped out as the sun set so lush view with orange clouds, not a good as pull my daisy, but a classic nevertheless.
cool, first E3! and onsight too! pretty hard up to the overlap then a bit dodge on the flakes! foot hold broke within a meter of topping out but lukily i stayed on! topped out as the sun set so lush view with orange clouds, not a good as pull my daisy, but a classic nevertheless.
Wow! Still can't believe I actually climbed this. I wouldn't bother with the nut key, it's pretty hard to find where it goes (I couldn't) and you just get pumped out when you'd be better climbing the thing. Not too cruxy, pretty sustained and worth the hype. First proper E3. Get on it before the bottom becomes even more polished! Flashed.
with Marshy
Wow! Still can't believe I actually climbed this. I wouldn't bother with the nut key, it's pretty hard to find where it goes (I couldn't) and you just get pumped out when you'd be better climbing the thing. Not too cruxy, pretty sustained and worth the hype. First proper E3. Get on it before the bottom becomes even more polished! Flashed.
Brilliant, brilliant route! It's been on my wish list for years and years. Fantastic feeling to finally get on it and up it clean!
(I actually had a very brief go at this a very long time ago (1998), when I wasn't climbing anywhere near the grade. Didn't even get to the first slot back then, before bailing, so I reckon my ascent today is effectively on-sight (apart from the first 2m!)).
Brilliant, brilliant route! It's been on my wish list for years and years. Fantastic feeling to finally get on it and up it clean!
(I actually had a very brief go at this a very long time ago (1998), when I wasn't climbing anywhere near the grade. Didn't even get to the first slot back then, before bailing, so I reckon my ascent today is effectively on-sight (apart from the first 2m!)).
cratered from 6 metres, but got straight back on. Fell off again at about 12 metre but then carried on up and completed the route. Fantastic route and will go back and do it in better style next time.
cratered from 6 metres, but got straight back on. Fell off again at about 12 metre but then carried on up and completed the route. Fantastic route and will go back and do it in better style next time.
Funny really, spent 2 days learning to climb slate, preparing for this. This is the least slate like, slate route i've climbed, big jugs, not thin, not run out, bomber gear, reasonable foot holds, no real scary rockovers, felt rather soft for E3?! Awesome line though, really good fun!
Funny really, spent 2 days learning to climb slate, preparing for this. This is the least slate like, slate route i've climbed, big jugs, not thin, not run out, bomber gear, reasonable foot holds, no real scary rockovers, felt rather soft for E3?! Awesome line though, really good fun!
worthy of its status and, despite comments on here, not really polished. psychological crux low down but straightforward; ignore comments about friend 1.5 etc - theres a superb nut placement at exactly the same point (still nice to have the friend though). stepping right to gain continuation crack is technical crux. felt bold above overlap but is steady with good gear available.
with jo
worthy of its status and, despite comments on here, not really polished. psychological crux low down but straightforward; ignore comments about friend 1.5 etc - theres a superb nut placement at exactly the same point (still nice to have the friend though). stepping right to gain continuation crack is technical crux. felt bold above overlap but is steady with good gear available.
awesome line, awesome experience. set off in the rain, had difficulty swapping cracks, but finally managed it. easy climbing to the roof left only the pull and 'easy' slab above.
just as I was thinking of how i could get out of the powerful pull over the roof, the sun came out. Spurred on I climbed over the roof with relative ease, only to be greeted by the slab. only 5a/b climbing,but run out, Dave looked on as I swore loudly about the guide book writer. It was finally done and I was happy i could say I had led a proper E3. :-)
awesome line, awesome experience. set off in the rain, had difficulty swapping cracks, but finally managed it. easy climbing to the roof left only the pull and 'easy' slab above.
just as I was thinking of how i could get out of the powerful pull over the roof, the sun came out. Spurred on I climbed over the roof with relative ease, only to be greeted by the slab. only 5a/b climbing,but run out, Dave looked on as I swore loudly about the guide book writer. It was finally done and I was happy i could say I had led a proper E3. :-)
Bit upset to second this, but i don't really like Slate, so i thought it was pushing it to try and lead on my 3rd day on the stuff. Franco adapted very quickly, but i was glad i did it clean rather than possibly dogging up on lead.
Nice Route.
Bit upset to second this, but i don't really like Slate, so i thought it was pushing it to try and lead on my 3rd day on the stuff. Franco adapted very quickly, but i was glad i did it clean rather than possibly dogging up on lead.
Nice Route.
Wow! Committing moves to get the first gear, tricky moves over the overlap then a run-out to the top. The number one route on my wishlist and it didn't disappoint. My calves and feet were in agony by the time I topped out though!
with SecretSquirrel
Wow! Committing moves to get the first gear, tricky moves over the overlap then a run-out to the top. The number one route on my wishlist and it didn't disappoint. My calves and feet were in agony by the time I topped out though!
What a route! Great moves, nice and scary start. Bomber gear. Technical, aesthetic line, dries quickly, viewable from Llanberris. Just a total 5* classic!
with Ian Frith
What a route! Great moves, nice and scary start. Bomber gear. Technical, aesthetic line, dries quickly, viewable from Llanberris. Just a total 5* classic!
Bold start, i used a micro wire 10ft up, i dont think it would have held a fall however mentally it helped. As enjoyable as heart of the sun but its comparison stops there. brilliant climb!
with Dave Rudkin
Bold start, i used a micro wire 10ft up, i dont think it would have held a fall however mentally it helped. As enjoyable as heart of the sun but its comparison stops there. brilliant climb!
I wasn't planning to do any climbing this evening, but a spur-of-the-moment idea by Dave had us racing to the quarry at dusk. Fell off once low down, onto in situ RP0 which Dave has now. Climbed with didgeridoo echoing around quarry. Finished as fireworks whizzed around quarry, in complete darkness. Then we went to a typical Llanberis party. Wild evening!
with Dave Hollingham
I wasn't planning to do any climbing this evening, but a spur-of-the-moment idea by Dave had us racing to the quarry at dusk. Fell off once low down, onto in situ RP0 which Dave has now. Climbed with didgeridoo echoing around quarry. Finished as fireworks whizzed around quarry, in complete darkness. Then we went to a typical Llanberis party. Wild evening!
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