UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
A stellar route, and one deserving of its reputation. Follow the crack-line up for 8m to the first good runner. Easier climbing leads to the kink in the crack, passing this is the crux. Good holds lead up to the overlap, which is easier to pass than it looks. Above, the gear is small and the climbing run-out. A steady head leads to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The most famous route on slate? Well-chalked and visible from Pete's Eats, this stunning crackline takes the centre of the Dervish slab, passing an overlap at two thirds height. "It's alright man, we're experienced rock cats."

S Haston Feb/1981.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , North Wales E3's , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Mike and Connors 2 year plan , Progression , AMC Uni Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , WideBoyz Crack School , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Caelan visits , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Michelle's crack ticklist , Slate 2018/2019 , UK Holiday Plans , E3's for 2020 , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Preparation for the Resurrection

Feedback

User Date Notes
annemiekev 5 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb!
Tom Fullen 6 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose fake in the crack a couple of meters after the overlap. Looks like it’s ready to go
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose fake in the crack a couple of meters after the overlap. Looks like it’s ready to go
Compo 22 Jul, 2012 Show βeta
βeta: So long coming. Turn the brain off and go for the first good gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So long coming. Turn the brain off and go for the first good gear.
salancaster 5 May, 1990 Show βeta
βeta: Ace
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ace

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Vivian Quarry

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 193
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 182
Votes cast 175
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tranquilizer

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

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