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18m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
An amazing route - a 7b+ chimney into a hard and sustained headwall. Some will walk up the slot, others will just be totally shut down by it, and vice-versa with the headwall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of many gems left scattered around, courtesy of Yorkshires finest acid folk DJ. Ascend the obvious hanging groove past numerous bolts, pull the roof out L and finish up the energy sapping crack.
Slightly obnoxious but so much fun - very Smith.
Think working on a building site
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Classic UK F7s, Top class slate sport 7b-8a, a State of Slate, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7c & 7c+, Slate Sport, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rock cats getting strong, Four years of university hit list
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Logged Ascents
| User | Date | Style | Notes & Partners
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|---|---|---|---|
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| wolf.leeb | 23 Feb, 2019 | Lead dnf |
jeeesus.. crazy shapes.. i think i want to go back but not sure why..
bottom of flake / groove is moving when laying back and 3rd and 4th bolts need replacing to protect crux.
infact just climb manic strain instead, its got holds. with dj greg |
| jeeesus.. crazy shapes.. i think i want to go back but not sure why..
bottom of flake / groove is moving when laying back and 3rd and 4th bolts need replacing to protect crux.
infact just climb manic strain instead, its got holds. with dj greg |
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| Ruppup | 19 Nov, 2018 | Lead dog | pretty hard. knee pads would help but would be cheaty |
| pretty hard. knee pads would help but would be cheaty | |||
| James Beaumont | 5 Nov, 2018 | Lead dog |
with Max |
with Max |
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| elyben | 22 Jul, 2018 | TR dnf | |
| Dan Arkle u | 2 Jun, 2018 | Lead dog | spanked. Groove ok, roof hard. This might have the most dnfs on slate? |
| spanked. Groove ok, roof hard. This might have the most dnfs on slate? | |||
| Andy Peak 1 | 2 Jun, 2018 | TR | Struggling a bit at the top of the groov, did the crux move 4 times convincingly and upper crack in two |
| Struggling a bit at the top of the groov, did the crux move 4 times convincingly and upper crack in two | |||
| Hidden | 5 May, 2018 | TR dnf | |
| Hidden | 20 Jun, 2017 | Lead dnf | |
| wi11 | 27 May, 2016 | TR dnf |
Fell pulling round the roof with Frank C |
| Fell pulling round the roof with Frank C |
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| Andy Peak 1 | 4 May, 2016 | Lead dog | As hard as hell but pleased I can get into the grove, work on the crux proper next time. |
| As hard as hell but pleased I can get into the grove, work on the crux proper next time. | |||
| Hidden | ??, 2016 | - | |
| Hidden | 20 Oct, 2015 | Lead RP | |
| i_a_coops | 15 Oct, 2015 | Lead RP | First redpoint. Think I've found my calling - why are there not more bolted frictionless chimneys out there? |
| First redpoint. Think I've found my calling - why are there not more bolted frictionless chimneys out there? | |||
| quiffhanger | 14 Jun, 2015 | Lead dog |
Continued to fall off the top crack multiple times. It's easy when you've rested on the rope. Hard when your core is shot and you're heart rate is approaching 200 bpm. Need to get fitter (in the conventional sense, not the climbing sense). with Rachel |
| Continued to fall off the top crack multiple times. It's easy when you've rested on the rope. Hard when your core is shot and you're heart rate is approaching 200 bpm. Need to get fitter (in the conventional sense, not the climbing sense). with Rachel |
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| jonleighton | 13 Jun, 2015 | Lead dog | The fourth bolt on this looks pretty dodgy to me (it moved when I tugged it...) It wouldn't be a ground fall if it came out though. |
| The fourth bolt on this looks pretty dodgy to me (it moved when I tugged it...) It wouldn't be a ground fall if it came out though. | |||
| quiffhanger | 13 Jun, 2015 | Lead dog |
Fell off the top crack on my final RP. Thought it would go the next day... with Rachel |
| Fell off the top crack on my final RP. Thought it would go the next day... with Rachel |
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| Hidden | 7 Jun, 2015 | Lead RP | |
| James Beaumont | 23 May, 2015 | TR dnf | got the crazy headjam move, but ended up dogging more than i climbed |
| got the crazy headjam move, but ended up dogging more than i climbed | |||
| Hidden | 15 May, 2015 | Lead dog | |
| Hidden | 12 May, 2015 | Lead dnf | |
| quiffhanger | 4 May, 2015 | Lead dog |
Awesome. Worked out the moves - super psyched to go back with fresh legs and see if I can do it clean. with Rachel |
| Awesome. Worked out the moves - super psyched to go back with fresh legs and see if I can do it clean. with Rachel |
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| Hidden | 15 Sep, 2014 | Lead dog | |
| James Smith | 15 Sep, 2014 | Lead dnf |
What an introduction to slate! Heavily dogged and couldn't make it out of the groove into the top crack. Exhausting! with tom p, jack g |
| What an introduction to slate! Heavily dogged and couldn't make it out of the groove into the top crack. Exhausting! with tom p, jack g |
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| HAJ Francis | 4 Apr, 2014 | Lead RP | First 7c, great fun, interesting moves the all the way to the top!! |
| First 7c, great fun, interesting moves the all the way to the top!! | |||
| tim exley | 2 Dec, 2012 | Lead dog |
with Tom Seccombe |
with Tom Seccombe |
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| Tom Seccombe | 2 Dec, 2012 | Lead dnf |
with tim exley |
with tim exley |
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| Michael Allday | 6 Nov, 2011 | Lead dog |
need 2 do it clean next time with John beecham |
| need 2 do it clean next time with John beecham |
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| lx | 25 Aug, 2011 | Lead |
awesome route. Feels quite hard for 7c but not done much on slate so don't know. 4th bolt was a bit loose, can pull it out about 1cm, (with full body weight pulling out on it). with alison |
| awesome route. Feels quite hard for 7c but not done much on slate so don't know. 4th bolt was a bit loose, can pull it out about 1cm, (with full body weight pulling out on it). with alison |
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| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u | ??, 2011 | Lead dnf |
Someone forgot to attach the big holds... with Shinta Osawa |
| Someone forgot to attach the big holds... with Shinta Osawa |
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| Hidden | 11 Sep, 2010 | TR dog | |
| eddy-on-the-rocks | 1 Jun, 2010 | Lead dnf |
Amazing. A bit of water in the top is my excuse. Nothing to do with the huge amount of energy to make one microns progress of course. with Rich |
| Amazing. A bit of water in the top is my excuse. Nothing to do with the huge amount of energy to make one microns progress of course. with Rich |
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| Hidden | 31 May, 2010 | Lead dog | |
| JulesV | 31 May, 2010 | TR dog |
with Shauna Cunningham |
with Shauna Cunningham |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 15 Apr, 2010 | - | Classic thrutching. So good. |
| Classic thrutching. So good. | |||
| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | ? Apr, 2010 | - | |
| farmus21 | 27 Mar, 2010 | TR |
So hard...so fun with Herve Nuttall, Mikey Goldthorpe |
| So hard...so fun with Herve Nuttall, Mikey Goldthorpe |
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| Brown | 17 Oct, 2009 | Lead dnf |
Fully bolted at F7c and nails with Pete |
| Fully bolted at F7c and nails with Pete |
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Route of Interest
Forsinain Motspur
Grade: 7c ***(Bus Stop Quarry)