UKC Logbook - 'The Missing Link'

Access Banned

A major rock fall has occured - access to the lower tier, beyond Dawes of Perception slab is very restricted and has been fenced off to protect the public.

There is currently no access to the quarry and climbers should avoid it for the time being.

The quarry is within the Padarn Country Park, managed by Gwynedd Council.

Last update: 03/03/2023

Updated by UKC: 8th March, 2023 11:25

Get the BMC RAD app

Rockfax Description
A contrived but interesting addition to link the top of the Dervish slab to the next levels, used to make The East Face of Vivian possible from bottom to top (p.§§§). Walk along the ledge leftwards from the Dervish belay, making sure no one is below you, to below the first bolt. Climb up a vague crack past two bolts and a 1.5 cam to reach a two-bolt lower-off. When doing the link you can 'swing' from here to the next level. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Allows continuation from top of Dervish slab to Ritter Sport level- not worth doing in its own right.
From the Dervish belay, carefully move left through the loose scree being careful not to dislodge any onto persons below, until below the first bolt. Technical and slightly snappy climbing gains 2 bolts, 1.5 cam slot and lower off, or traverse onto Ritter Sport level and a block belay a long way back.