14m. Excellent, a real midget gem. Follow East Sphinx Climb (or East Sphinx Direct) but traverse left, heading for the eye, on a continually surprising set of holds, onto the exposed arete hanging in space. Step round onto the forehead and reach for the flutings. Lovely stuff. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Ascend easily at first, then with more difficulty leftwards to a spike runner. Traverse out left with increasing interest in line with exposure and distance from runner, with twinkling footwork and sharp handholds all the way. A high step and rockover, or a shuffle round the nose leads to relief as the angle eases to finish up the flutings. A superb, improbable route.
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