UKC

Rockfax Description
10m. Superb bold and engrossing, and only a bit harder than the 1959 original version. Follow the bold start to West Sphinx Climb as far as the thin horizontal crack. Make a long move up to a pocket then slink off right to the forehead slab. Substantially harder for the short, especially the reach for the eye. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Traverse under the nose and make a hard move to get established on the face (gear). Make a long reach to a small pocket high on the wall then up and right onto the top of the slab. Awesome!

Ticklists

North York Moors - The Best... Arguably, Rockfax Northern England Top 50, Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England, The Moorland Challenge 2

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 16 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Easier physically, technically and better protected than many E1s with a modern rack of micro cams and wires and the skills to place these well (plus something bigger for the pocket), however E2 is fair. Shorter climbers may think it is harder and those without a modern rack may find the route considerably bolder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easier physically, technically and better protected than many E1s with a modern rack of micro cams and wires and the skills to place these well (plus something bigger for the pocket), however E2 is fair. Shorter climbers may think it is harder and those without a modern rack may find the route considerably bolder.
Chris Shorter 21 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The "eye" takes a very welcome Friend 2 1/2 or at least it did about 15 years ago when I last did it. The move for the eye is very reach dependent.
Show beta
βeta: The "eye" takes a very welcome Friend 2 1/2 or at least it did about 15 years ago when I last did it. The move for the eye is very reach dependent.

Logged Ascents

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Gypsy

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Almscliff)
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