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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

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Last update: 01/05/2022  

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28m.

Rockfax Description
Slightly superseded by the next route, with which it shares the hardest climbing. The upper wall is pleasant and far easier. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Rebolted May 2012.

FA. Pete Oxley 27/Mar/1990.

Ticklists

Portland

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Dorset Cover
Dorset (2021)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister and Pete Oxley
Portland Cover
Portland (2008)
Climbers' Club
By Steve Taylor
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Route of Interest
Right hand finish to Cocteau Phenomenon. Typical February weather
Cocteau Phenomena

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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