UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing, heading for the open scoop right of The Bad Seeds. Swing left at the top to shared lower-off with The Bad Seeds. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 01/Nov/1994.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland

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User Date Notes
John Alcock 23 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but finding a good hold to clip the 2nd bolt off is quite trying if nothing is chalked. The crux is enjoyably technical and you need a little bit of umph left for the move to the last runner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but finding a good hold to clip the 2nd bolt off is quite trying if nothing is chalked. The crux is enjoyably technical and you need a little bit of umph left for the move to the last runner.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Ah yes, the bird shit encrusted break - reminds me of Swanage somewhat... I though the climbing above half height was superb and better than anything on Glamour Cat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ah yes, the bird shit encrusted break - reminds me of Swanage somewhat... I though the climbing above half height was superb and better than anything on Glamour Cat.
Chris Shorter 1 Oct, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing but if felt like 6c to me. The 2nd clip is a bit dodgy as you have to hang on a friable hold to reach the staple.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing but if felt like 6c to me. The 2nd clip is a bit dodgy as you have to hang on a friable hold to reach the staple.
tomrainbow 14 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The original grade of 6b+ seems about right for this route - it is certainly no harder than The Watchman. Better than Glamour Cat or 1789 - the rock in the top half is excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The original grade of 6b+ seems about right for this route - it is certainly no harder than The Watchman. Better than Glamour Cat or 1789 - the rock in the top half is excellent.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Judge Jeffreys

Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Edge)
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