Restricted Access
All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
One of the longest pitches on Portland which tackles the upper arete of the pillar. The reach symbol is for clipping the bolts (tip - do No Place for Mambas first and place the clips on your way down). © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker 13/Aug/1989.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| brian watson | 7 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: 7a+ is a fair grade for this IMO | βeta? | |
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βeta: 7a+ is a fair grade for this IMO |
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| Si Witcher | 19 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I onsighted this yesterday, placing the clips, and thought it was fairly graded for a cruxy (2 bolts worth of hard climbing) 7a+. The hardest move was clipping a bolt though! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I onsighted this yesterday, placing the clips, and thought it was fairly graded for a cruxy (2 bolts worth of hard climbing) 7a+. The hardest move was clipping a bolt though! |
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| Ben Stokes | 25 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: I agree with the comments above - very unbalanced | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree with the comments above - very unbalanced |
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| marky | 13 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: This is never 7a+.I think the undercut flake has broken making it a very unbalanced route. More like 7b? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is never 7a+.I think the undercut flake has broken making it a very unbalanced route. More like 7b? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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Victims of Fashion
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Edge)