UKC Logbook - 'Trad Free World'

28m.

Rockfax Description
A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below a shallow corner. Climb the rib just left of the corner (hard) to gain the wall proper and easier climbing. Follow the wall to a thin crack. Climb the thin crack to a final leaning headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 07/Nov/1992.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , ICAS Climbing Club , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , Portland , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , The post lockdown local list , PO2021 , Portland scheming

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User	Date		Notes
salexc	27 Aug, 2023	Show βeta βeta: I pay into the bolt fund every month, and I should very much like to sponsor a bolt between 2nd and 3rd please. The very real chance of decking out on to the ledge is no fun.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I pay into the bolt fund every month, and I should very much like to sponsor a bolt between 2nd and 3rd please. The very real chance of decking out on to the ledge is no fun.
RockSteady	20 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: A little runout in places.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A little runout in places.
Sash.C	14 Mar, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Not as hard as you expected? i think its perfectly graded at 6b.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not as hard as you expected? i think its perfectly graded at 6b.
nugski	13 Mar, 2006	Show βeta βeta: not as hard as i expect. trick first part but good rest points throughout. enjoyable climb.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: not as hard as i expect. trick first part but good rest points throughout. enjoyable climb.
Ben Stokes	19 Oct, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Overrated in my humble opinion and not as good as either of the two climbs to the left.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Overrated in my humble opinion and not as good as either of the two climbs to the left.
John Alcock	19 Jul, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Always a relief to reach the 2nd bolt, particularly as you can't see it from below. Big stretch for the short to gain the first holds Great route though.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Always a relief to reach the 2nd bolt, particularly as you can't see it from below. Big stretch for the short to gain the first holds Great route though.
PeteDeb	26 Feb, 2001	Show βeta βeta: On Sunday 18th February 2001 I was laybacking up the flake to the right of the first bolt when a huge bit broke off with me attached. The block hit the crack in the ledge below and broke in half and wedged. Luckily it missed my second and I swung on the bolt, but it was close! Anyway, I am reporting it because the route has changed. I don't think its any harder - just different - still a great route.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: On Sunday 18th February 2001 I was laybacking up the flake to the right of the first bolt when a huge bit broke off with me attached. The block hit the crack in the ledge below and broke in half and wedged. Luckily it missed my second and I swung on the bolt, but it was close! Anyway, I am reporting it because the route has changed. I don't think its any harder - just different - still a great route.