Restricted Access
All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
An exhilarating pitch with a low crux and great climbing above up a narrow corner high on the face. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 13/Jul/1989.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , Portland Projects 6c-7a+
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ben Stokes | 29 May, 2005 |
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βeta: that should be soft touch! | βeta? | |
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βeta: that should be soft touch! |
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| Ben Stokes | 29 May, 2005 |
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βeta: As Rich says, a short touch for the grade. If you get pass the low crux there shouldn't be anything stopping you. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As Rich says, a short touch for the grade. If you get pass the low crux there shouldn't be anything stopping you. |
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| Chris Shorter | 3 Sep, 2000 |
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βeta: The crux is only 20 feet up and it is way harder than anything above, where there are also several reasonable resting places. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is only 20 feet up and it is way harder than anything above, where there are also several reasonable resting places. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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Mariner's Graveyard
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)