UKC

32m.

Rockfax Description
The finest route in WCJ has a hard move on the lower wall. Once past this, the route follows a superb finger/hand-crack. Climb left of a lower crack to a bulge (peg). Pull through with difficulty to the ledge above then head up the wall to gain the crack. Thrash up this (off-fingers and small cams ), the hanging corner is your target; make it that far and you're home.. © Rockfax

FFA. Ron Fawcett, Pete Livesey 1976. Climbed during a purple-patch in the mid-70s, racing Proctor, Birtles and Marshall to the first ascent who had done it previously with one rest point. FAA. Paul Nunn, Brian Barlow, Barry Ingle 1960. FA. (Direct Start,.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Classic Lobs

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User Date Notes
Brown 29 Jul, 2014 Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing especially the upper crack. This route was adequately protected by leader placed protection with no reliance on any insitu pegs at all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climbing especially the upper crack. This route was adequately protected by leader placed protection with no reliance on any insitu pegs at all.
donie 11 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: superb.clean.peg at the start still ok and can be backed up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: superb.clean.peg at the start still ok and can be backed up.

Logged Ascents

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Knitting Needle Arête

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Upper Matlock Quarries)
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