UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
A fine crack climb which provides one of the real trad gems in Water-cum-Jolly, pumpy and quite awkward to protect. It starts on the lower left toe of the buttress and follows the prominent crack on the right to a lower-off. Good value. © Rockfax

FFA. Keith Myhill 1970. Together with Ping Pong, this ascent marked the change from aid climbing to free climbing. FAA. Graham West, Barry Roberts 1959.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Mike Kelly 2 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Thought the middle section was a bit goey for HVS with the gear placements a bit iffy, felt it was more like the old guide book grade of E1 5b. The bat 1/8/06
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought the middle section was a bit goey for HVS with the gear placements a bit iffy, felt it was more like the old guide book grade of E1 5b. The bat 1/8/06
Alex Mason 21 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: first limestone route of the year thought the gear looked rubbish didnt trust it at all so phsycologically it was nearly a solo. ran it out from the start of the hanging crack to the last 4m headwall
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first limestone route of the year thought the gear looked rubbish didnt trust it at all so phsycologically it was nearly a solo. ran it out from the start of the hanging crack to the last 4m headwall
tog (Donny) 11 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bit thin for HVS and 5a - I say it's E1 5b albeit the lower end of the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit thin for HVS and 5a - I say it's E1 5b albeit the lower end of the grade.

Logged Ascents

140 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Water-cum-Jolly

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Tippler

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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